Carnivores, the season for meaty braises has arrived. Deep-flavored stews, amped up with assorted aromatics, are just right for cooking throughout the cold-weather months. Generally speaking, it is the front end of most beasts that qualifies for cooking "low and slow." With beef, that means chuck, brisket and short ribs, along with shank, shin and cheek. These tougher cuts are incredibly delicious if allowed to cook at a bare simmer with a sufficient amount of liquid.
otherwise the result is dry and stringy. And the ribs are usually sold on the bone, further enhancing flavor.Like most other stews, short ribs may be cooked a day or two ahead, then refrigerated in their braising juices. The advantages are twofold. For one, the flavors shine more brightly upon gentle reheating, and they seem to show more complexity. The other is that degreasing is made simpler. Just lift off and discard the hardened fat that has risen to the top, and the broth will be virtually fat-free.They are versatile, too, easily adapting to every kind of spice mixture. Here, a fragrant Chinese-inspired marinade featuring star anise, cinnamon, five-spice powder and tangerine makes them anything but ordinary. I always add a handful of dried Chinese chili peppers to render the braise both sweet and hot, and some Sichuan peppercorns to provide a subtle earthy dimension. Daikon radish, simmered along with the beef, absorbs the perfumed juices, too. The sauce is dark and savory.Other possible approaches are endless, from mild-mannered Yankee pot roast to bistro-style French pot-au-feu, or make them Italianate with a bit of tomato, red wine and dried porcini. Once you master the technique, you can customize short ribs to suit any whim.
The trick with a braise like this is determining when the meat is perfectly done, for even a long-simmered dish can become overcooked. You want it completely tender but not falling apart, so test it with a paring knife to be sure. Taste it, too, to be extra certain - that's a cook's prerogative.
Time: 2 1/2 hours
Yield: 4 to 6 servings5 pounds beef short ribs, cut flanken style, across the bone in 3-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon five-spice powder
1/2 teaspoon ground Sichuan pepper (optional)
2 tablespoons grated ginger
1 tablespoon minced garlic
Zest of 1 large tangerine, in wide strips
1/2 cup tangerine juice
6 to 8 small dried Chinese chili peppers (or chilies de arbol)
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon salted black bean paste
1 daikon radish, about 1 pound peeled (optional)
3 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick, 3-inch length
1/4 cup Chinese rice wine or sherry
3 cups hot chicken broth or water
2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
6 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish1. Season short ribs generously on both sides with salt and pepper and place in a heavy roasting pan in one layer. In a mixing bowl, stir together five-spice powder, Sichuan pepper (if using), ginger, garlic, tangerine zest and juice, chili peppers, brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil and black bean paste. Smear mixture over meat and leave to marinate at least one hour at room temperature, or preferably overnight in the refrigerator.2. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut daikon into 1/2-inch pieces and set aside. Bring meat to room temperature. Add star anise, cinnamon stick, rice wine and broth to roasting pan. Cover and bake for 1 1/2 hours, then add daikon and return to oven. Bake for 30 minutes more, until meat is quite tender.3. Remove meat and daikon from pan and keep warm in a serving dish. Strain braising juices into a saucepan and degrease. You should have about 3 cups. Bring to a simmer, then whisk in cornstarch mixture and cook for 1 minute until slightly thickened. Pour sauce over meat and daikon, garnish with scallions and serve.© 2014 New York Times News Service
otherwise the result is dry and stringy. And the ribs are usually sold on the bone, further enhancing flavor.Like most other stews, short ribs may be cooked a day or two ahead, then refrigerated in their braising juices. The advantages are twofold. For one, the flavors shine more brightly upon gentle reheating, and they seem to show more complexity. The other is that degreasing is made simpler. Just lift off and discard the hardened fat that has risen to the top, and the broth will be virtually fat-free.They are versatile, too, easily adapting to every kind of spice mixture. Here, a fragrant Chinese-inspired marinade featuring star anise, cinnamon, five-spice powder and tangerine makes them anything but ordinary. I always add a handful of dried Chinese chili peppers to render the braise both sweet and hot, and some Sichuan peppercorns to provide a subtle earthy dimension. Daikon radish, simmered along with the beef, absorbs the perfumed juices, too. The sauce is dark and savory.Other possible approaches are endless, from mild-mannered Yankee pot roast to bistro-style French pot-au-feu, or make them Italianate with a bit of tomato, red wine and dried porcini. Once you master the technique, you can customize short ribs to suit any whim.
The trick with a braise like this is determining when the meat is perfectly done, for even a long-simmered dish can become overcooked. You want it completely tender but not falling apart, so test it with a paring knife to be sure. Taste it, too, to be extra certain - that's a cook's prerogative.
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Time: 2 1/2 hours
Yield: 4 to 6 servings5 pounds beef short ribs, cut flanken style, across the bone in 3-inch pieces
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon five-spice powder
1/2 teaspoon ground Sichuan pepper (optional)
2 tablespoons grated ginger
1 tablespoon minced garlic
Zest of 1 large tangerine, in wide strips
1/2 cup tangerine juice
6 to 8 small dried Chinese chili peppers (or chilies de arbol)
1/2 cup dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
1 tablespoon salted black bean paste
1 daikon radish, about 1 pound peeled (optional)
3 pieces star anise
1 cinnamon stick, 3-inch length
1/4 cup Chinese rice wine or sherry
3 cups hot chicken broth or water
2 teaspoons cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold water
6 scallions, thinly sliced, for garnish1. Season short ribs generously on both sides with salt and pepper and place in a heavy roasting pan in one layer. In a mixing bowl, stir together five-spice powder, Sichuan pepper (if using), ginger, garlic, tangerine zest and juice, chili peppers, brown sugar, soy sauce, sesame oil and black bean paste. Smear mixture over meat and leave to marinate at least one hour at room temperature, or preferably overnight in the refrigerator.2. Heat oven to 350 degrees. Cut daikon into 1/2-inch pieces and set aside. Bring meat to room temperature. Add star anise, cinnamon stick, rice wine and broth to roasting pan. Cover and bake for 1 1/2 hours, then add daikon and return to oven. Bake for 30 minutes more, until meat is quite tender.
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