Late Summer's Grilling Sweet Spot

The calendar may claim September as a summer month, but our national psyche insists that it's fall. That's probably because we associate going back to school with crunching leaves underfoot and bundling up in cozy sweaters, even when the temperatures are still in the 70s and the trees still green and full.This is sad in a way, because in the Northeast, September is usually the nicest of all the summer months: crisp, clear, sunny, with the humidity of July and August just an unpleasantly muggy memory.Therefore, of all the summer months, September is arguably the best suited to backyard barbecues. Not only is it finally more pleasant to be outside than sprawled out in front of the air-conditioner, but you can heat up the grill for long periods without worrying about overheating your guests.This is a particular boon for grilling anything that takes longer than a burger, like butterflied leg of lamb.Leg of lamb is also a lot more elegant, and one leg can feed a crowd.I like to marinate mine with a garlicky herb paste, the longer the better. Overnight in the refrigerator is ideal, but even a few hours at room temperature will help. Just make sure to always pat your lamb dry after marinating; this helps eliminate flare-ups.Butterflied legs of lamb tend to be unevenly cut, giving you thicker and thinner parts. This is good if some of your guests like their lamb more well done than you do, but problematic if everyone likes it rare.If you want rare all around (or well done for that matter), consider cutting the lamb into pieces according to thickness so you can take the thinner ones off the grill first.Since summer is still with us, you can serve any of the vegetable-laden dishes you've been enjoying for the last two months alongside your meat. Or for something different, I offer a couscous and dried apricot salad dressed with preserved lemon and plenty of herbs.And to drink, a gentle-tasting but fully potent punch made with Cognac, maraschino, lime and nutmeg. It's a festive meal that gives summer its due.So if you packed away your grill when you fished out those sweaters, pull it out and make good use of it while you can. Autumn will be here soon enough.
Grilled Leg of Lamb with Spicy Lime Yogurt Sauce

Time: 45 minutes, plus at least 2 hours' marinatingYield: 12 to 15 servings
For the lamb:1 (5- to 6-pound) boneless butterflied leg of lamb, well trimmed1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil1/4 cup mixed chopped thyme and rosemaryGrated zest of 1 orange1 tablespoon fresh orange juice8 garlic cloves, minced2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed1 teaspoon black pepper
For the yogurt sauce:1 1/2 cups plain Greek yogurt1/2 cup basil leaves1/4 cup mint leaves1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil1 (1-inch-thick) slice of ginger, coarsely chopped2 garlic cloves, peeled1 small jalapeño, halved and seeded if desired1 large scallion, trimmedGrated zest of 1 lime1 tablespoon fresh lime juice, or to taste1 teaspoon kosher salt, more to taste1. Pat lamb dry with paper towels and place it on a rimmed baking sheet. In a bowl, combine oil, herbs, orange zest and juice, the minced garlic cloves, salt and pepper. Rub mixture all over lamb. Cover with plastic wrap and let marinate at room temperature for 2 hours, or overnight in the refrigerator.2. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until smooth. Taste and add more salt if you like.3. Heat the grill. Wipe lamb with paper towels, removing most of the rub, then grill until a digital thermometer reads 120 degrees for rare or 130 for medium (about 6 to 15 minutes per side, depending on how you like your meat and how thick the lamb is). If the meat starts to char before it's done, move it to a cooler part of the grill to finish cooking. Let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before slicing and serving with the yogurt sauce.
Couscous Salad with Dried Apricots and Preserved Lemon

Time: 15 minutesYield: 12 servings3 cups Israeli (aka pearl) couscous, whole-wheat or regular1 1/2 teaspoons cumin seeds2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar3/4 teaspoon coarse kosher salt, more to taste1/2 teaspoon black pepper3/4 cup chopped dried apricots3/4 cup torn fresh mint leaves2/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh dill2/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, more to taste1/2 cup chopped scallion, white and light-green parts2 1/2 tablespoons chopped preserved lemonFresh lemon juice, to tasteChopped pistachio nuts, for garnish (optional)1. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add couscous and cook until just tender, 4 to 6 minutes. Drain.2. Meanwhile, in a small dry skillet, toast cumin seeds until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Lightly crush them using a mortar and a pestle (or use the flat side of a heavy knife and a cutting board). Add to a bowl with the warm couscous, vinegar, salt and pepper and toss well. When the couscous is cool, add remaining ingredients and mix well. Taste and add more salt, lemon juice or oil if needed. Garnish with pistachio nuts if desired.
Scirocco PunchTime: 30 minutes, plus at least 3 hours for maceratingYield: 12 servings4 lemons8 limes170 grams granulated sugar (about 3/4 cup)1 750-milliliter bottle Cognac6 ounces maraschino liqueur3 cups cold soda water1 whole nutmeg1. Using a vegetable peeler, remove peels from lemons and 2 limes. Place peels in a pint-size
Mason jar with sugar. Reserve peeled limes. (Save peeled lemons for another purpose.) Seal
jar and shake until combined. Let sit for at least 3 to 4 hours and up to overnight, shaking
occasionally. This allows the sugar to extract the oil from the peels.2. Squeeze juice from both the peeled and unpeeled limes, then strain it. You should have 3/4
cup. (Save any extra juice for another purpose.) Pour juice into citrus-infused sugar, reseal jar and shake until sugar has dissolved; this is your shrub.3. Fill a 1-gallon punch bowl or pitcher halfway up with ice cubes. Pour in shrub, including
peels. Add Cognac, maraschino liqueur and soda water. Stir well. Grate 1/4 of the nutmeg on top and let sit for 15 minutes. Serve in 3- to 4-ounce portions.(Adapted from David Wondrich)© 2013 New York Times News Service