Muffins That Aspire to be Cupcakes

There are muffins that aspire to be healthful, filled with the likes of whole grains, wheat germ and fruit purée. Then there are rich, chocolate-chip-laden muffins that are more like cupcakes in disguise.These muffins fall squarely into the latter camp. Although they do not contain chocolate, they are as tender and buttery as any crumb cake, though more petite. And like a crumb cake, their nubby, cinnamon-scented crumb topping makes them feel more appropriate for brunch than dessert.Although you could bake these muffins in a 9-inch pan and call it cake, their diminutive diameter gives them a distinct advantage: crisper crumbs. Because a greater number of the crumbs come in contact with the surface of the metal muffin pan, they end up more thoroughly crunchy without any soft and soggy spots.The first time I baked these, I piled what looked like a generous pebbly mountain of crumbs onto each one. Somehow the crumbs all but disappeared when baked, merging into the batter. After several more attempts, I ended up increasing the ratio of crumbs to batter until they were almost equal. Which is to say that while it may look like too many crumbs before baking, it comes out just right.When I started making this recipe in early summer, I used black raspberries, which gave me intense little pockets of jamlike fruit. But they also lodged too many seeds in my teeth. As the season progressed, I tried other berries. Bits of strawberry were juicy and light. Blueberries were jammy without being seedy, though without the same acidic kick as black raspberries.Blackberries are the best in these muffins: syrupy, only mildly seedy and extremely, undeniably tart, which made a welcome contrast to all those sugary crumbs. If your blackberries are the size of a quarter rather than a penny, break them up with your fingers before stirring them into the batter so they distribute more evenly. But feel free to use any good berries you can find.You can bake these early in the day, or even the day before you want to serve them. I can vouch for their delightfulness when served with a brunch of bacon and lightly scrambled, herb-flecked eggs. But they are also just right with an afternoon cup of tea. They may not be as actively good for your body as some other types of muffin. But they are undeniably good for your soul.Blackberry Crumb MuffinsTime: 45 minutes
Yield: 24 muffinsFor the crumb topping:255 grams all-purpose flour (about 1 1/2 cups)75 grams granulated sugar (about 1/3 cup)105 grams dark brown sugar, lightly packed (about 1/2 cup)6 grams ground cinnamon (about 1 1/2 teaspoons)1 gram ground allspice (about 1/4 teaspoon)1 gram fine sea salt (about 1/4 teaspoon)170 grams unsalted butter, melted (12 tablespoons; 1 1/2 sticks)For the cake:170 grams unsalted butter, at room temperature (12 tablespoons;
1 1/2 sticks)200 grams granulated sugar (about 1 cup)3 large eggs, at room temperature1 cup sour cream1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extractFinely grated zest of 1 lemon325 grams all-purpose flour (about 2 1/2 cups)10 grams baking powder (about 2 teaspoons)3 grams baking soda (about 1/2 teaspoon)3 grams fine sea salt (about 1/2 teaspoon)1/2 pint fresh blackberries (or raspberries, blueberries or diced strawberries)1. Heat oven to 350. Grease or line 24 muffin cups.2. Make the crumb topping: Whisk together flour, sugars, spices and salt in medium bowl. Pour in melted butter, stir until crumbs form.3. Prepare the cake: Using an electric mixer fitted with the paddle, cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, then scrape down sides of mixer. Mix in sour cream, vanilla and zest.4. In a separate bowl, mix together flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt. With mixer on low speed, add flour mixture to batter and beat until just mixed. Fold in berries with a spatula and make sure batter is completely mixed.5. Spoon batter into prepared muffin pans, filling cups only halfway. Pinch large crumbs from topping mixture and scatter evenly on top of the batter.6. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until muffins are golden and their centers spring back when very gently pressed with a finger. (A cake tester will come out with crumbs attached, but it shouldn't be wet.) Transfer muffins to a wire rack. Serve warm or let cool completely and freeze.© 2013 New York Times News Service