HOM Review: Fire Takes Centre Stage At This New Restaurant In Bandra

Cooking, by definition, involves the application of heat. Until the invention of electricity and gas stoves, making food involved fire - or a heat source directly derived from it. For most city dwellers today, fire is something we view as primal and perhaps even ritualistic. In a non-culinary context, a fire may remind some people of offerings made to deities and divine beings. A new restaurant in Mumbai, named after the Sanskrit ritual of havan, taps into this raw human fascination with fire. HOM in Bandra channels fire's practical and theatrical aspects to present a dining experience that celebrates Indian ingredients in creative new ways. The reverence implied in its name is directed towards food, not in terms of tradition, but through a devotion to the rich diversity of flavours from across the country.

The Team Behind HOM Restaurant

HOM is steered by first-time restaurateur Pratik Gaba, whose energy and affinity for nightlife and community permeate the space. He's traded event-managed crowds for culinary ones, and brings that same spirit to the dining experience. The kitchen is led by Chef Saurabh Udinia, a chef who cut his teeth at Indian Accent under Manish Mehrotra. From there, he helped establish Masala Library and Farzi Cafe, before venturing abroad and gaining acclaim in Singapore as chef-owner of Revolver. His journey feeds directly into HOM's ethos of fearless, flavour-forward cooking with deep roots in Indian culinary heritage.

Ambience At HOM Restaurant

HOM's interiors reject quiet restraint in favour of bold, maximalist storytelling that mirrors its fire-driven menu. The heart of the room is an open kitchen fitted with a tandoor and custom wood-fired grill, glowing like a stage set and pulling diners into its orbit from the moment they sit down. Designed by Studio 6158's Parzan Daruwalla and Natasha Chawla, the 2,000-sq-ft space leans into textured warmth. It features terracotta stucco walls, burgundy tiles and sculptural columns that act as visual punctuation marks. The restaurant unfolds across two contrasting zones: an outdoor, brick-lined British-style garden and an indoor area that channels the plush intimacy of a chic living room. The overall effect creates an atmosphere that crackles with colour, heat and intent.

Food At HOM Restaurant

HOM describes its cuisine as "progressive Indian." It offers a la carte menus as well as tasting menus. The latter is available only for the exclusive counter seating (which needs to be pre-booked). Several of the courses from the tasting menus are featured on the regular menu. We're told that portion sizes (and prices) of the a la carte section have been designed to encourage people to explore a wide variety of delicacies in a single meal, including those that they may not be used to eating. Nearly everything is cooked in the open kitchen. On busy nights, the team has to manage the flow of a la carte orders along with ensuring the timely plating and proper sequence of the tasting menus for the diners at the counter. This balancing act seems far from easy - but the energy of the staff suggests they relish the challenge.

During our visit, we experienced both the veg and non-veg tasting menus (11 courses each). The first dish paid homage to Chef Saurabh's Delhi roots, but not in the conventional way. We start by digging into a dahi chaat with an aerated bhalla. Right from the start, we realised how the creations were not overly complicated yet technique-driven. The chaat was followed by stuffed pungulu, which was made using a special canister with nitrogen oxide to keep it light and airy, the chef explains. The result was non-oily, non-greasy and beautifully soft.

After the first few plates, the courses are simply named after individual ingredients. Printed descriptions of each menu item are minimal, creating a sense of suspense as to how they will be executed on the plate. We also don't want to give too much away - the best tasting menus should be about delightful discoveries, after all. But let's frame it this way: if we had to order a la carte, we have several favourites.

The Kashmiri Morel, served on both menus, was a stunner. Filled with pieces of the mushroom itself (bharwan style), it gets a wonderful smoky flavour and a unique texture after being cooked on the tandoor. We were also amazed at the simple transformation of Asparagus into easy-to-eat pieces after its trial by fire. Mixed with a Tamil-style masala with a black pepper and curry leaf base, it was juicy, crunchy and aromatic. The Mountain Potato, which is HOM's ode to the comforts of Pahadi dahi aloo, was another standout. It featured a generous chunk of Potato pavé (also known as "thousand-layer potatoes") on a bed of dahi tadka.

Among the non-vegetarian options, the Scallop & Crab was a scrumptious seafood treat served with a lime kuzhambu. "The scallop is seared directly over embers for 10-15 seconds, so it cooks in its own steam and gets a caramelised outer layer," the chef explained as we watched the dish take shape right before our eyes. When we bit into it, we were immediately won over. A similar sensation of delight followed the tasting of the Red Snapper, which is the chef's take on Patra Ni Macchi with a chutney made with coriander, lemongrass and coconut. Here, the fish is not just steamed but finished on the grill, making it even more succulent.

Throughout the meals, carbs were kept to a minimum and made a major appearance only towards the end. The Kulcha course, which was the most filling, was the last savoury one before dessert. It ensured that we were able to enjoy the finer points of each earlier arrival on the table without getting overwhelmed by their number.

Drinks At HOM Restaurant

HOM's drinks programme has been conceptualised by Countertop, helmed by Pankaj Balanchandran. The cocktails are made without added sugar, focusing on smooth and sophisticated sips. They mirror the level of technical expertise reflected in the food menu. We began with Ashes to Oolong (Whisky, Hojicha, Passionfruit, Pandan, Lime juice), a yoghurt-clarified cocktail that is surprisingly carbonated. We marvelled at how it brought together a range of complex notes with seeming ease. We were also left in awe of the quiet brilliance of Red Shrub Club, a gin-based treat enhanced by vermouth bianco and red amaranth syrup. You may think, "Laal saag in an alcoholic drink?!" But it actually works - and lends the cocktail a unique earthiness.

Another option on the menu incorporated a veggie unexpectedly. Beets by Cafe, HOM's take on an Espresso Martini is sweetened with beetroot and infused with nutty sesame. It has a wonderful depth, but doesn't overwhelm the palette. Our second round also consisted of the refreshing Cuban Missile Swizzle (Rum, Bianco Vermouth, Campari, Pineapple, Coconut), whose bright flavours paired well with the coastal courses.

Apart from the signature cocktails, the restaurant has a full bar (including a curation of classic cocktails), a refined wine list and several zero-proof options.

Final Thoughts

In a way, dining at HOM reflects the dual function of fire - it can provide warmth (in terms of comforting flavours and attentive service) as well as light (through new ways of presenting the familiar). The theatricality of the counter seating was not a distraction. Rather, it made us appreciate our meal and its provenance more than usual.

HOM Restaurant Address: HOM, shop no 1, Zindagi chsl, Khar Pali Road, 15th Road, Bandra, Mumbai 400052
Approximate price for two: (A la carte) Rs 2500 without drinks; tasting menus are priced at Rs 3750 and Rs 4750 for veg and non-veg respectively (exclusive of taxes).