Don't Fear the Bluefish

Bluefish are feisty, both on the line and on the plate.The strong-muscled fish put up a fight before you reel them in, which is why people who love sport fishing seek them out. And those muscles translate into flavor when you cook them - a boon for anyone who prefers a fish with personality. If you like tuna, swordfish and striped bass, you'll adore bluefish.Even better, bluefish is a sustainable, inexpensive and for those on the East Coast local choice, in season throughout the summer months, when the fish are plentiful in the warming Atlantic waters.So why aren't they a constant on every East Coaster's summer recipe rotation? Possibly because the fish have the reputation of being oily and unpleasant, which is true if you get one that isn't perfectly fresh. Unlike meek non-oily fish that can sit on ice for a few days without much harm, bluefish need to be pristinely and absolutely fresh to be enjoyed."Bluefish have a time-sensitive compound that kicks in after three days and can give them a gamy flavor," said Paul Greenberg, the author of "American Catch: The Fight for Our Local Seafood."If you can't catch them yourself, then Greenberg, an avid bluefish fan, recommends buying them from a reliable source, the kind of place that will actually know how long ago they were caught. Smaller fish, those in the 2-to-4-pound range (with fillets weighing around 6 to 8 ounces each), will have the sweetest flesh.Bluefish are rich and succulent when just grilled or broiled and topped with a squeeze of lemon to cut their richness. But they also stand up to assertive flavors like chilies, ginger, herbs and garlic, which makes them extremely versatile for the cook.Greenberg likes to simmer the fillets in a robust, peppery, sweet sauce inspired by a traditional Vietnamese caramel fish. In that recipe, white sugar is caramelized, then simmered for an hour with catfish steak and aromatics.My version streamlines the process by using brown sugar, which shortens the total cooking time to less than 30 minutes, and gives you a tangy, syrupy, spicy sauce that works wonderfully with the saline fish. The same recipe will also work with trout, salmon or swordfish if you can't get bluefish, though you may have to adjust the cooking time slightly to account for larger fillets.If you've never cooked bluefish, this recipe is a good place to start, and now is the perfect time to try it.Fast Vietnamese Caramel BluefishTime: 20 minutes
Yield: 4 servings
4 (6-ounce) skin-on bluefish fillets (or substitute mackerel, trout or thin salmon fillets)
1 tablespoon peanut, grapeseed or safflower oil
1 stalk lemon grass, or use lemon or lime zest (see note)
1/3 cup light brown sugar
2 tablespoons Asian fish sauce
1 1/2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 teaspoon grated ginger
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
Sliced scallions, as needed
Thinly sliced jalapeno, as needed
Fresh cilantro, as needed
Cooked rice, for serving (optional)1. Brush fish all over with oil. Remove outer layer of lemon grass stalk and cut stalk into 2-inch lengths. Using the butt of a kitchen knife, pound and bruise stalks all over.
2. Place lemon grass pieces, sugar, fish sauce, soy sauce, ginger and black pepper in a large skillet. Bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, and reduce sauce for 1 to 2 minutes, until syrupy.
3. Place fish, skin side-down, in pan. Simmer, basting fish frequently with pan sauce, for 2 minutes; carefully turn fish and continue cooking until fish is just cooked through, 2 to 3 minutes longer.
4. Transfer fish to a serving plate and garnish with scallion, jalapeno and cilantro. Drizzle with additional sauce. Serve over rice, if desired.
Note: If you can't get lemon grass, peel a 2-inch strip of lemon or lime zest with a peeler and use that instead. You don't need to bruise the peel.© 2015 New York Times News Service