The Strait of Hormuz, located on the narrows of the Persian Gulf, is not only one of the most critical arteries of global energy supply, but is also the gateway to an island with one of the most unusual culinary traditions on the planet.
Amid the ongoing US-Israeli war with Iran, the world's attention has moved to the Strait of Hormuz, the narrow waterway typically handling about 20 million barrels of oil shipments each day and roughly 20 per cent of global liquefied natural gas trade.
Iran reportedly shut down the Strait of Hormuz around March 1, leaving many tankers and other vessels stranded.
Beyond its strategic importance, not many know that the Hormuz is often called the rainbow island for its extraordinary sands, which range from saffron-reds to turmeric yellows and mossy greens.
But among all these hues, only one soil is edible: gelak, a naturally occurring red soil. Locals never consume gelak in powdered form. Instead, they treat it like a spice - an essential seasoning in their traditional kitchen, especially when preparing sooragh: a deep red, mineral-rich fish sauce made with the island's own vibrant soil.
Sooragh is a strikingly crimson, tangy, salty condiment that captures both the landscape and the cultural identity of Hormuz's residents.
Why Do Locals Eat This Red Soil?
For the people of Hormuz, gelak, the red soil, is more than a novelty:
- It gives sooragh its brilliant colour and bold aroma, making it a prized condiment in southern Iranian cooking.
- The soil is believed to possess antimicrobial and disinfecting qualities that help preserve food in the region's intense heat.
- Many locals also consider it a natural supplement, claiming it reduces the need for additional iron intake.
Sooragh, therefore, is not merely a sauce; it reflects an instinctive relationship between the island's environment and its culinary traditions.
What Does Sooragh Taste Like?
This distinctive condiment is made using fresh momegh (a type of sardine), natural salt, dried orange peel, and the much-revered gelak. The mixture ferments under the sun, developing a salty, fishy intensity softened by citrus notes and a deep, earthy tang imparted by the soil.
One of its most beloved pairings is tomshi - an ultra-thin, soft bread whose name roughly translates to 'fist pancakes.' Locals tear off pieces of tomshi and swipe them generously through the sauce, creating a simple but deeply expressive island snack.
How This Unusual 'Soil' Fish Sauce Is Made
Preparing sooragh is a time-honoured process:
1. The inside of an earthenware jar is dusted with coarse sea salt.
2. Fresh sardines are cleaned, deboned and salted before being packed into the jar.
3. The jar is sealed and left in the hot sun for two weeks.
4. Once fermented, the fish is removed and rubbed thoroughly with gelak, transforming it into a vivid red.
5. The fish is layered back into the jar with dried sour orange peels (narenj) and lime leaves.
6. The mixture sun-cures again for about three more weeks.
After this slow transformation, the sauce becomes a deeply hued, boldly flavoured condiment served with bread, rice, lentils or shrimp.
Sooragh not only combines the taste of the soil and fish but also connects the soul of the beloved island to the local people.