Kolkata is a city that wears its Mughlai food love proudly. Say the word "Mughlai" here and most people will point you straight to biryani. But tucked just behind that spotlight is another combination that locals swear by: chicken chaap and rumali roti. For many Kolkatans, this is not just a meal but an emotion, heavy with ghee, spice, and nostalgia. From late-night joints in Chandni Chowk to century-old kitchens in Chitpur, the chaap-rumali duo remains one of the city's most soulful indulgences. So, why does this pairing matter so much? And which restaurants are still keeping it alive in its truest form? Let us take a walk through Kolkata's Mughlai lanes.
The Story Behind Chicken Chaap:
Food historians trace chaap back to the Nawabs of Awadh, who brought their royal chefs to Kolkata in the 1800s. Over time, the recipe took on Bengali influences, evolving into something distinct. The key lies in slow cooking and an indulgent mix of posto (poppy seeds), char magaz (nut paste), and ghee. The result is chicken that melts off the bone, coated in a rich, nutty gravy that demands to be mopped up with hot rumali roti.
Locals know this is not a light bite. The dish is oily, indulgent, and best eaten hungry. A squeeze of lime or a few onions on the side helps balance the flavours, and those who know the routine always finish with a sweet firni or a glass of lassi.
Now that the context is set, here are the places where you can taste the chaap-rumali combination at its finest.
1. Royal Indian Hotel, Chitpur
If Mughlai food had a throne in Kolkata, Royal Indian Hotel would be sitting on it. Established more than a century ago, this Chitpur landmark is known for its mutton and chicken chaap, simmered in a peppery, ghee-laced gravy that regulars cannot get enough of.
- Must try combo: Chicken chaap + rumali roti + firni
- Approx. cost: Rs. 250-Rs. 350 per person
- Best time to visit: 12:30 pm-2:00 pm or 7:00 pm-8:30 pm
Pro tip: Go early or be prepared to wait. The rush is relentless.
Also Read: Durga Puja 2025: Kolkata's Iconic Non-Veg Dishes To Try
Photo Credit: Royal Indian Hotel Pvt. Ltd.
2. Nizam's Restaurant, Esplanade
The world knows Nizam's for inventing the Kathi Roll, but Kolkatans know their chicken chaap deserves just as much attention. The gravy here is thick, tangy, and boldly spiced, perfect for those who like strong flavours.
- Also try: Kathi roll and mutton rezala
- Approx. cost: Rs. 350-Rs. 450 per person
- Best time to visit: 12:00 pm-1:30 pm or 6:30 pm-8:00 pm
Pro tip: End with their classic firni. It is a pairing that has stood the test of time.
3. India Restaurant, Kidderpore
Tucked into Kidderpore, India Restaurant has a loyal following among South Kolkata foodies. Their chicken chaap is smoky, perfectly spiced, and tender enough to fall off the bone. The rumali roti is always served piping hot, making it an instant comfort meal.
- Also try: Chicken cheese kebab
- Approx. cost: Rs. 300-Rs. 400 per person
- Best time to visit: 1:00 pm-3:00 pm or 8:00 pm-9:30 pm
Pro tip: Ask for extra gravy. They are generous with it.
4. Haji Saheb, Behala
If you are in Behala and craving Mughlai food, locals will send you straight to Haji Saheb. The portions are hearty, the chicken chaap is mildly spiced, and the rumali roti arrives fresh and soft.
- Also try: Mutton biryani
- Approx. cost: Rs. 300-Rs. 400 per person
- Best time to visit: 7:30 pm-9:00 pm
Pro tip: Great for takeaway if you are short on time. You can also order it online through food apps.
5. Zam Zam, Park Circus
Forget the décor; Zam Zam is all about taste. Their chicken chaap is rich, oily, and indulgent, with a gravy that clings to the meat. The rumali roti is light and stretchy, perfect for wiping the plate clean.
- Must try combo: Chicken chatpata + chicken chaap + rumali roti
- Approx. cost: Rs. 350-Rs. 450 per person
- Best time to visit: 8:00 pm-10:00 pm
Pro tip: Ideal for group dinners where everyone is ready to get messy.
Also Read: History Of Kolkata Biryani: 5 Iconic Biryani Places In The City Of Joy
6. Zeeshan Restaurant, Park Circus
A short walk from Quest Mall, Zeeshan is a dependable stop for Mughlai food. Their chicken chaap is spicier than most, with a nutty, thick gravy that regulars swear by.
- Also try: Mutton tikia
- Approx. cost: Rs. 300-Rs. 400 per person
- Best time to visit: 1:00 pm-2:30 pm or 7:00 pm-9:00 pm
Pro tip: Add a simple green salad to cut the richness.
7. Aminia, Multiple Outlets
With branches spread across the city, Aminia is the most accessible name on this list. Their chicken chaap balances spice, aroma, and richness without being overwhelmingly oily, making it a safe and consistent choice.
- Also try: Special biryani
- Approx. cost: Rs. 350-Rs. 450 per person
- Best time to visit: 12:30 pm-2:00 pm or 7:00 pm-8:30 pm
Pro tip: Do not miss their firni. It has cult status of its own.
8. Oudh 1590, Multiple Outlets
For a sit-down Mughlai meal with polish, Oudh 1590 is the place. Their chicken chaap leans less on spice and more on aroma, with ghee tying the flavours together in authentic Awadhi style.
- Must try combo: Galouti kebab + chicken chaap + rumali roti
- Approx. cost: Rs. 400-Rs. 500 per person
- Best time to visit: 1:00 pm-2:30 pm or 7:30 pm-9:00 pm
Pro tip: Make a reservation. Tables fill fast.
Photo Credit: Oudh 1590
9. New Alia Hotel, Chandni Chowk
For those who want their chaap fix after dark, New Alia is a go-to. Their version is greasy, spicy, and full of street-style charm, served well into the night.
- Also try: Beef seekh
- Approx. cost: Rs. 250-Rs. 350 per person
- Best time to visit: 10:00 pm-12:00 am
Pro tip: Go late. That is when the place comes alive.
Why Chaap-Rumali Is A Local Favourite?
Eating chaap in Kolkata is not about restraint. It is about going in hungry, eating it hot, and balancing the richness with lemon, onions, or a cool lassi. Locals know that rumali roti loses its charm if it sits too long, so timing matters. Those who plan wisely also avoid peak hours, when kitchens are rushed and service slows down. Or, you can just order it online and enjoy while sitting at home.
The chaap-rumali combination is more than a dish. It is a piece of Kolkata's cultural fabric, a meal that brings together old-school legends, neighbourhood gems, and late-night haunts. Biryani may grab the headlines, but for many Kolkatans, it is chicken chaap with rumali roti that tells the real Mughlai story of the city.
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