Fudge Pop Perfection

The Fudgsicle was my move when the ice cream truck came around. But like so many childhood food memories, it just doesn't deliver in adulthood. So I went looking for a way to mix the fun and convenience of a chocolate ice pop with a better ingredient list and more sophisticated flavor.There are several recipes for frozen fudge pops floating around, some of which use corn syrup or cornstarch to control body and texture, and others that rely on what seemed to me to be an outrageous amount of cream. Some weren't chocolaty enough; others had an overwhelming amount of dark chocolate. There were even recipes that called for butter, which didn't seem to add much but more fat to the finished bars I tried.In the end, I turned to the blender. Emulsification, not more fat, is the key to a smooth fudge pop.For flavor, I used a little cocoa powder and good chocolate, in the form of a couple of higher-end chocolate bars broken up and softened by warmed milk with just a hit of cream. Vanilla and salt gave the whole thing some character.I tested molds. Long stainless tubes that stood upright in a stand came with lids that held the sticks in place. The pops were pretty, and I liked not having to use plastic. But these pops are rich, and I wanted a slightly smaller portion.Silicon molds that come in a variety of shapes were smaller, pretty and slightly more convenient, and they allowed the pops to freeze on their sides. But this is summer, and the living should be easy. And who needs extra equipment to store?Three-ounce disposable paper cups were the perfect size for the rich desserts, and had a rustic, kidlike feel. The only headache is waiting an hour or so until the pops are semi-frozen before inserting the sticks. That's just about all the work you want to do for a summer dessert.Frozen Fudge PopsTime: 10 minutes, plus freezingYield: 8 small pops, fewer if larger molds are used6 ounces good-quality chocolate, at least 54 percent cacao2 cups whole milk1/2 cup cream1/4 cup sugar2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa2 teaspoons vanilla1 teaspoon kosher salt1. Break up chocolate and put into a blender. Bring milk, cream, sugar and cocoa to a light boil and immediately remove from heat. Pour milk over chocolate, add vanilla and salt and allow to sit for a few minutes to soften chocolate. Blend until chocolate and milk are emulsified and the mixture is smooth.2. Pour into eight 3-ounce paper cups (there may be a little left over), or use ice pop molds. If using the small cups, place in freezer for about 1 hour before inserting wooden craft sticks so the sticks will stand straight.3. Freeze well for 24 hours. Pops may be taken out of paper cups and stored in a heavy freezer bag.© 2015 New York Times News Service