The meat
I'd always assumed that meat in the kofte context meant lamb: that's certainly what always seems to be cooking when I cycle round Turkish London with my mouth hanging open. In fact, a mixture of lamb and beef is surprisingly common - indeed, Rebecca Seal includes a recipe in her new book Istanbul using only beef, and Yotam Ottolenghi and Sami Tamimi use an equal amount of both, while Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall goes for slightly more lamb. I find the stronger flavour of the lamb stands up better to the spices than the subtler beef, so there seems little point in buying both.Cut is important here: you need something with enough fat to stick together on the grill, and remain nice and juicy on a high heat. Leg, as recommended by Anissa Helou in Lebanese Cuisine, has a tendency to be a bit dry: the shoulder used by Ottolenghi and Tamimi, Fearnley-Whittingstall and Claudia Roden in Arabesque gives a far better result.Advertisement
Alliums
Onions seem to be a must in koftes: only Fearnley-Whittingstall dumps them in favour of garlic. Grating them, as Helou, Roden and Allegra McEvedy suggest, though certainly more of a pain than Ottolenghi and Tamimi's fine chopping, gives the kebabs a more assertively oniony flavour, though it's important to squeeze them out a little, as McEvedy suggests, or they'll make the mix too sloppy to hold together in the pan. You can also use a food processor here, as Roden and Helou do, but this tends to chop the onion so fine it's difficult to separate it from the excess liquid, so I'd only take this road if you've got people coming over and you'd prefer not to have mascara halfway down your face when they arrive. Grating onions is, I admit, an unpleasant task, but the results are, I think, worth shedding a few tears over.Herbs and spices
Peppery parsley is the most popular addition to koftes: Fearnley-Whittingstall is the odd one out yet again, but then he is making "merguez koftes" which means he's got a few other spices up his sleeve. I love the emphatically Middle Eastern flavour, and the green colour parsley gives the kebabs - and even better is McEvedy's mix of mint and parsley. Mint is always a happy pairing with lamb, and here it adds a welcome freshness too.Fearnley-Whittingstall uses a dazzling array of spices: fennel, cumin, coriander, paprika, cayenne pepper, sumac and harissa paste, which makes his koftes as orange as a Calippo, or indeed the notoriously geyser-like merguez sausage, ruiner of a thousand silky summer outfits. Undoubtedly delicious, but a little more North African than I'm after here.Advertisement
Extras
McEvedy adds breadcrumbs to her kofte mix, which gives them a real juiciness, but which feel wrong here: I'll defend the rusky British sausage to the death, but I do think these should be all meat.Fearnley-Whittingstall rolls them in poppy and sesame seeds before cooking, which looks great, but has a tendency to burn if you're aiming to char the meat - more successful are Ottolenghi and Tamimi's chopped pine nuts, lending a sweet crunch to every mouthful.Advertisement
The perfect lamb kofte
(Serves four)
2 small onions
1 small bunch of parsley
1 small bunch of mint, leaves only
750g lamb shoulder, finely minced (or see above)
50g toasted pine nuts, roughly chopped
1½ tsp ground cinnamon
1½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp grated nutmeg
1½ tsp black pepper
1½ tsp salt
Oil, to greaseGrate the onions, and squeeze out most of the liquid through a sieve. Put in a large bowl. Finely chop the parsley and mint, and add.
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Felicity Cloake's perfect lamb kofte Photograph: Felicity Cloake
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