Some will nibble on a single square of single‑origin 85% dark chocolate once a day for a fortnight - moderating pleasure, feeling virtuous. I can't do that. Each time I discover, or am reminded of, some particularly delicious food, I eat it as much and as often as possible, until I can no longer bear the sight of it. It's not a sustainable hedonism, but it's a fun one. Most recently, it has been cider: I had a glass of a deliciously dry cider in the precocious spring sun some weeks ago, and since then I've been pouring the stuff into everything I cook. It works surprisingly well in baking, where its acidity lends a refreshing brightness to cakes and breads. I'll probably grow tired of it soon, but for the moment, at least, cider tastes as good as ever.
Spelt cider sunflower seed loaf
Cider gives this bread the acid hit that you might expect from a sourdough, in a fraction of the time. Because spelt flour's structure is different from wheat's, you'll need to handle this dough slightly less than you might usually, and take care not to let it rise for too long (otherwise it'll grow fragile and collapse before it even reaches the oven). As for accompaniments, I can think of no better way to serve this than with a few slices of cheddar, strong chutney and (what else?) a glass of crisp, cold cider.Makes 1 large loaf250g strong white flour
250g wholemeal spelt flour
7g instant dried yeast
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp honey
250ml dry cider
100ml water, hot
100g sunflower seeds1 Combine the flours, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Separately, whisk together the honey, cider and hot water. The mixture should be tepid: if it's much warmer than this, leave it to cool for a minute or two before adding to the dry ingredients.
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Cider blackberry cupcakes
It makes sense that the autumnal, apple notes of cider would work well with blackberries. These cupcakes have deeply fruity, jammy centres to complement the cider-laced cake. The tops will have a rough-and-ready look to them once they've been dissected, filled and pieced back together again, but you can mask this with a slick of icing or a dusting of icing sugar if you're more aesthetically minded than me.You could also divide this batter between two round 22cm cake tins and just sandwich the two with jam if you'd prefer a single, large cake. Throw a handful of finely chopped, toasted hazelnuts into the batter for even more flavour.Makes 12125g unsalted butter
175g light brown soft sugar
150ml dry cider
2 medium eggs
225g plain flour
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
¾ tsp baking powder
¼ tsp salt
¼ tsp cinnamon
4-5 tbsp blackberry jam1 Preheat the oven to 180C/350F/gas mark 4. Line a 12-hole bun tin with muffin cases.
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