Making Couscous at Home: No Grain, No Gain

When I visited a small village in northwestern Morocco this summer, I was enchanted by the sight of a group of women at a food cooperative, sitting on the floor with their legs outstretched, expertly mixing water with semolina, then raking the grain with their fingers in sweeping circular motions as they prepared couscous from scratch.I returned home longing for the fresh wheaty flavor and light steamed texture of homemade couscous, superior to what you get from a box.A few weeks later, I found myself in Brooklyn, at the Smorgasburg food market in Williamsburg, where I happened upon a booth emanating the fragrance of fresh couscous and stew. The booth, NYShuk, is operated by Ron Arazi and his wife, Leetal, chefs from Israel who run a company that showcases Jewish Middle Eastern food. Through them I learned how simple and satisfying it is to make your own couscous.All it takes is some semolina, a little water, a strainer and a steamer. Once you have practiced it a few times to pick up the knack, it is easy, even magical. Not to mention a showstopping addition to the table at Rosh Hashana, which is early this year, beginning Sept. 4."Making couscous is not hard," said Ron Arazi, 32. "But it is labor intensive. For Leetal and me, couscous is craftsmanship. We are losing the battle of making it to industrial processed couscous."The two (she is 28) met while working as cooks in the Tel Aviv kitchen of Herbert Samuel, one of Israel's top restaurants. Thinking good home cooking from Israel (not the typical hummus and falafel) was missing here, they relocated to spread the word and their cuisine, joining the ranks of a growing number of young chefs from Israel in recent years."We are actually trying to show another layer of Israeli cuisine, from Morocco, Turkey and other places," Ron Arazi said. "We feel it is a shame that no one knows what it's about."
He learned to make couscous from his mother, who was born in Mogador, now Essaouira, a town in Morocco once known for its expert couscous makers. "I, the only son in my family, love to preach about it," he said. "My sisters never made couscous in their life."
Ron Arazi taught me how to make couscous in the kitchen of his Crown Heights apartment. Watching him work with his hands was mesmerizing. He put about 4 cups of semolina into a large mixing bowl and dampened it by spraying it with water. Holding the bowl in his left hand, he patted and circled his fingers gently over the semolina until the grain started to clump into tiny balls. Then he steamed it over water."Moroccan Jewish cooks always steam couscous over a stew," he said, but "then you can't taste the natural wheaty flavor of the semolina." Transferring the couscous to a mesh sieve, he gently shook the grains through. Soon it was ready for a little salt and some oil, then it went back into the steamer, covered this time.As it steamed, he put the last touches on roast lamb shanks with caramelized onions and tanzeya, a preserve made of dried fruits like prunes, apricots and figs, a Jewish Moroccan dish served for Rosh Hashana."Food like this gives you sasson and simcha - happiness and joy - something you need for the New Year," he said.
Hand-Rolled Couscous
Adapted from Ron and Leetal AraziTime: 75 minutes
Yield: 6 servings500 grams Bob's Red Mill or other semolina flour (2 3/4 cups)1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste1/3 cup canola, soybean or vegetable oil2 cups water, or beef or chicken broth1. Put the semolina into a large mixing bowl. Place 1/2 cup water into a sprayer and use it to moisten the semolina. Begin by spraying the surface, stirring the mixture with your hand, pressing down and moving the palm in a circular motion. It is better to have too little moisture than too much, because you don't want to create a dough. Continue to spray and mix until water is evenly incorporated into the semolina; it should form tiny granules without clumping, and not all the water may be needed.2. Shake the moistened semolina through a strainer or colander with holes about 1/8 inch in diameter (better slightly larger than smaller) and into another bowl. After most of it has passed through, stir to continue to pass it through, then press to pass as much as possible. Some doughy mixture won't go through the strainer (as much as 1/3 cup), and this may be discarded.3. Prepare a couscoussiere or steamer by adding 4 to 5 inches of water to the bottom, and bring it to a boil. Add the semolina and steam uncovered for 10 minutes, mixing about every 30 seconds to prevent clumping; after 10 minutes, the mixture won't clump any more. Cover, and continue to steam for another 30 minutes, stirring about every 10 minutes.4. Transfer the couscous to a bowl, sprinkle with salt, and drizzle with oil. Stir gently with a fork. The couscous may be covered and refrigerated at this point for up to three days.5. To serve, bring 2 cups of water or broth to a boil, and set aside. Steam the couscous one more time, covered, over boiling water, for a further 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and add 1 to 2 cups of the liquid so it is moist but not wet. Fluff, and serve immediately, or if desired, pass once more through a large-holed sieve or colander. It may be cooled and refrigerated for up to three days; reheat by steaming.
Lamb Shanks with Caramelized Onions
Adapted from Ron and Leetal Arazi
Time: 3 hours
Yield: 6 servings6 lamb shanks, about 1 pound eachCoarse kosher or sea salt2 tablespoons vegetable oil4 large onions, halved root to stem and thinly slicedPinch of saffron threads1 cup Moroccan Jewish tanzeya (see recipe)1 cup blanched whole almonds, toasted1. Sprinkle lamb shanks with salt to taste; if using kosher lamb, less salt will be needed. In a large, wide casserole with a lid, heat oil over medium-high heat until shimmering. Working in batches, brown lamb shanks on all sides. Transfer lamb to a plate and set aside.2. Add onions to pan and sauté until they begin to soften, about 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of water and 1 teaspoon salt. Cover, reduce heat to low and simmer until onions are very soft, about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat oven to 275 degrees.3. Mix saffron with 1/4 cup water and add to pan. Stir to mix well, 2 to 3 minutes. Add lamb to the onions and mix well. Cover and transfer to oven. Bake until lamb is very tender, about 2 hours.4. Stir 1 cup of the tanzeya into onions. Return pan to the oven and bake, covered, until mixture is reheated, about 15 minutes. Garnish with toasted almonds and serve by itself or over couscous.
Moroccan Jewish Tanzeya
Adapted from Ron and Leetal AraziTime: 1 hour, 15 minutes
Yield: 3 cups1 cup prunes1 cup dried apricots1 cup quartered dried figs1 cup raisins200 grams sugar (about 1 cup)1 stick cinnamon1 whole cardamom pod1 whole allspice berryPinch of dried chili flakesPinch of salt1. In a wide, shallow saucepan, combine prunes, apricots, figs and raisins. Add 2 cups hot water, and allow to rest for 15 minutes.2. Add sugar and remaining ingredients. Place over high heat and bring to a boil. Cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until water has almost completely evaporated, 45 minutes to 1 hour.3. Discard cinnamon stick and cardamom pod. Allow mixture to cool; if desired, it may be covered and refrigerated for up to two weeks.© 2013 New York Times News Service