A grain salad, or perhaps one of couscous or even pasta is calm, sustaining and frugal. The list is long: basmati, spelt, cracked wheat and rice are all contenders. Each one is a blank canvas that allows us, almost impels us, to get a little imaginative.A salad with starch at its heart needs careful dressing if it isn't to be soggy. I toss my drained couscous or spelt, rice or long flowing noodles only at the last minute. No cream or mayonnaise, but a light olive oil and juice-based dressing, lively lemon, ripe yellowing limes or pomegranate. A dressing can be simple but it must be vibrant and fresh.Herbs are, I think, essential in a salad that is brought together with a mild-tasting principal ingredient such as wheat or rice. More herbs than you could imagine. I work on the ratio of two handfuls of grain to one of chopped herbs. It sounds a lot, but think of how good a generously parsley-flecked Middle Eastern tabbouleh is compared to one that is predominantly brown wheat.Though not strictly a grain, the fat pearls of the giant couscous called mograbia are fast becoming one of my favourite salad ingredients. Boil them in deep, salted water, as you would pasta, then toss with olive oil, lemon and roasted, caramelised shallots or slices of slow-cooked onion, then make the couscous feel at home with green olives and mint. I sometimes use them with preserved lemon too, the pulp removed and the skin chopped finely. We need bright, piquant flavours in a salad such as this.
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Pearled spelt and bacon
Cherries and bacon go rather well together, just as ham and apricots or pork and apples do. Here, they are folded into a warm and nutty salad of spelt.Advertisement
red onion 1
sherry vinegar 2 tbsp
lemon juice of 1
chicken stock 500ml
pearled spelt 200g
bacon 8 rashers, smoked streaky
olive oil 2 tbsp
cherries 250g
parsley a handful Peel the onion, thinly slice into rounds and place in a shallow bowl. Mix the sherry vinegar and lemon juice then pour over the onion rings and set aside for an hour. Turn the onion occasionally until it is soft and pink.Bring the chicken stock to the boil, add the pearled spelt and leave to simmer for about 15-20 minutes till just tender, then drain and tip into a large mixing bowl.Cut the bacon into postage stamp- sized squares then fry in the olive oil a non-stick pan till crisp. Drain on kitchen paper, keeping the bacon fat and oil in the pan.
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Mograbia, roast shallots and lemon
Mograbia is the plump, pearl-sized couscous that deserves to be more accessible. It is not a grain, but is treated like one. I pick it up, in large bags, from Middle Eastern grocers whenever I see it. The fat beads of ground, rolled and steamed semolina keep well in a stoppered storage jar.Serves 3mograbia 200g
olive oil 3 tbsp
shallots 6, small, cut in half
cornichons 10
mint a large handful, shredded
lemon zest and juice of 1
olives 150g Cook the mograbia in deep, salted boiling water for about 20 minutes, till tender. It should retain a little bite. Drain and refresh in cold water then tip into a mixing bowl and toss gently a tablespoon of olive oil.
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Pearls of wisdom: Nigel Slater's pearled spelt and bacon recipe. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer
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