Kashmiri cuisine is known for its rich flavours, traditional dishes and unique cooking methods. But food in Kashmir is not just about wazwan or special meals served during celebrations. Bread is an important part of everyday life, too. From breakfast to evening tea, different varieties of Kashmiri rotis find a place on the dining table. And when it comes to these breads, the traditional kandur, or Kashmiri baker, plays an important role.
Kandur culture is a familiar sight across Kashmir, where neighbourhood bakeries bring people together over freshly baked bread. These bakeries are known for making different types of rotis, each with its own taste, texture and place in local food traditions. A recent video shared by Humans of Bombay offers a glimpse inside one such traditional bakery in Srinagar, where baker Faizan Rehman talks about his work, the different breads he makes and his family's connection to the profession.
Introducing himself in the video, Faizan says he works as a kandur in Srinagar. His father started the business around 30 years ago, and Faizan has been working there for the past two to four years. For him, baking is a daily routine that begins well before most people wake up.
According to Faizan, the work starts at 3 am, when they begin preparing lavasa roti. The early morning hours are followed by other varieties, including ghee roti, chochwor, kulche and bakarkhani. Each bread has its own appeal, giving customers several options to choose from.
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Lavasa is a traditional Kashmiri flatbread, while ghee roti gets its distinct taste from ghee. Chochwor is a Kashmiri bread commonly associated with a ring-shaped form and sesame seeds. Kulche are another bakery favourite, while bakarkhani is a thicker, layered bread with a slightly crisp texture.
The video also offers a look at the work that goes into running the bakery. Faizan says they prepare around 1,500 rotis in a single batch and make as many as 2,500 rotis by 5 pm. He also mentions that one roti costs Rs 10. Explaining how they get the colour of their bread, he says they use powdered milk in the preparation.
Among all the varieties, ghee roti is Faizan's personal favourite. He says he eats it most often and that customers like it, too.
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Towards the end of the video, Faizan invites people to visit the bakery and experience the taste of Kashmiri roti.