Fish Cakes Conquer Their Shyness

The typical fish cake does not call attention to itself. Potato-rich, monochromatic and satisfying, it is the kind of thing you'd make for a homey dinner when the food wasn't the point. Not so with these fish cakes, which, with their mix of aromatic chiles and herbs, are a brighter and more compelling take. The recipe starts out like any other by combining cooked white fillets with mashed potatoes, bread crumbs and eggs. After chilling, the mixture is coated in flour and fried until crisp and brown. But that's all for the similarities. I've added flavor in every step. Instead of merely boiling the fish, I sear it with garlic, then steam it in vermouth or white wine. After the fish is done, the potatoes are simmered in the same pan as a way to deglaze it and incorporate the tasty browned bits stuck to its bottom. I leave the garlic cloves in the pan, too, to thoroughly soften along with the potatoes, then I mash the roots all together. Those garlicky mashed potatoes make a rich and pungent base for the fish. For seasoning, I stir in minced scallions, cilantro and basil, grated lime zest and hot green chiles. The cakes are speckled with green in the center, rather than dull all white. And the flavor is vibrant and spicy - though the degree of spice depends on your chile. A small serrano will give you a mild but persistent heat. Substituting a jalapeno takes it down a notch, while using a Thai chile could make it fiery enough for your cheeks to flush. Tartar sauce is the classic fish cake accompaniment. But here you need something either stronger in flavor to stand up to these intense aromatics, or milder to mellow them. If you want the brawny option, I'd suggest mixing preserved lemons, or Indian lime or mango pickle, into good-quality mayonnaise. For something gentler, heap a big fat dollop of plain mayonnaise right on top of the cakes, and squeeze a little lime juice over it. Finally, a word about the fish. Cod is traditional, but its stocks are threatened, so consider a more sustainable fish. Any mild white-fleshed fish will work. Ask a knowledgeable fishmonger in your area, or consult the Monterey Bay Aquarium's seafood watch website for the latest information about what fish are in good supply. Then whip up fish cakes that make a bright and exuberant statement - along with a satisfying meal. Fish Cakes With Herbs and Chiles Time: 45 minutes, plus at least 3 hours' chilling Yield: 6 to 8 servings 2 tablespoons olive oil, more for frying 2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled 1 pound firm white fish fillets, such as hake, black sea bass or flounder 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, more as needed 1/4 teaspoon black pepper 2 tablespoons dry vermouth or white wine 1 pound russet potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced (2 cups) 2 eggs 3 tablespoons roughly chopped cilantro 3 tablespoons roughly chopped basil 1 scallion, white and green parts, finely chopped 1 serrano chile, seeded and minced Pinch cayenne Finely grated zest of 1 small lime 1/3 cup panko bread crumbs 1/2 cup all-purpose flour 3 tablespoons chopped lime pickle or preserved lemon (optional) 1/2 cup mayonnaise Lime wedges, for serving 1. In a large skillet over medium heat, heat olive oil. Add garlic and cook until golden brown at the edges, about 2 minutes. 2. Season fish with 1 teaspoon salt and the pepper, add to pan and let cook for 1 minute. Add vermouth and 2 tablespoons water. Turn heat to low, cover and cook until fish is just barely cooked through, 8 to 10 minutes. Move fish to a plate, keeping any liquid and garlic in skillet. 3. In the same skillet over high heat, add potatoes, remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and water to just cover. Bring to a boil, reduce to simmer, cover and cook until tender, about 15 minutes. 4. Flake fish. Drain potatoes and garlic, and place in a large bowl. Roughly mash potatoes and garlic, then add flaked fish, eggs, cilantro, basil, scallion, chile, cayenne, lime zest and panko, and combine. Season with salt if needed. Cover and chill for at least 3 hours. 5. Place flour on a plate. Form generous 1/4 cup fish patties about 1/2 inch thick. Dip patties into flour to lightly coat each side. 6. In a large, preferably nonstick skillet, heat 1/8 inch of olive oil over medium heat. Cook fish cakes until golden brown, about 5 to 8 minutes each side, adding more oil as needed. Move to a paper-towel-lined plate. 7. If using lime pickle or preserved lemon, stir into mayonnaise. Serve fish cakes with the mayonnaise (with or without pickles) and lime wedges.   © 2014, The New York Times News Service