From Khichdi To Kedgeree: How India's Comfort Food Became A British Breakfast Classic

Picture a steaming bowl of rice, gently spiced, flecked with herbs, and topped with flaked fish and boiled eggs. It may sound like a British brunch staple, but its soul is unmistakably Indian. This is kedgeree, a dish born from khichdi, shaped by colonial history, and now served in cafés, country homes, and cookbooks across the world. In fact, it would not be an exaggeration to call kedgeree a culinary manuscript, layered with memory, migration, and adaptation. From Mughal kitchens to Victorian breakfast tables, kedgeree has travelled far, changing ingredients, picking up smoked haddock and parsley, yet retaining the comfort of its Indian origin.

In this feature, we trace how the humble khichdi became kedgeree, why it continues to fascinate chefs and historians, and how you can cook it in your own kitchen today.

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Khichdi In Indian Homes: Comfort Beyond Generations

Before kedgeree became a British breakfast, khichdi had already cemented its place in Indian kitchens. It is often the first solid food given to infants, a gentle dish for those recovering from illness, and a fasting staple during religious rituals. Its association with nourishment and simplicity has made it more than just a meal - it is a symbol of care.

Every region in India has its own take. Bengal's moong dal khichuri is cooked during Durga Puja, Gujarat has a spiced version paired with kadhi, while South India serves pongal, a celebratory cousin of khichdi. This deep cultural presence ensured that when the British encountered it, khichdi was already a dish carrying emotional as well as nutritional weight.

Kedgeree And Its Indian Roots: From Khichdi To Colonial Adaptation

Kedgeree is a warm rice dish made with flaked fish, boiled eggs, mild spices, and herbs. It is often served for breakfast or brunch in Britain, but its roots lie in India's khichdi, a dish celebrated for its simplicity, nourishment, and cultural significance.

Khichdi has been part of Indian cuisine for over two millennia. Ancient travellers like Seleucus Nicator and Strabo described rice-lentil preparations in North India. By the Mughal era, khichdi had evolved into multiple versions, some rich with spices, others mild and sattvic. Emperor Akbar's court records mention khichdi as a staple, and by Aurangzeb's time, fish and eggs had entered the mix.

When the British arrived in India, they encountered khichdi not just as food but as a cultural marker. To suit European palates, lentils were replaced with fish, spices were toned down, and herbs like parsley were added. This adaptation paved the way for kedgeree.

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How Khichdi Became A British Breakfast Favourite?

As colonial life shaped dining tables, khichdi found a new identity in British households. During the Raj, officers and their families adopted Indian dishes, adjusting them to fit their own culinary norms. Khichdi's gentle texture and digestibility made it an ideal candidate.

Food historian Sanjit Chudha notes that kedgeree became popular in British country homes during the Victorian era. It was served as part of elaborate breakfast spreads, alongside toast, eggs, and tea. The dish was considered exotic yet familiar, a way to bring a taste of India into English mornings.

Over time, kedgeree evolved into a symbol of Anglo-Indian fusion. It reflected not just culinary exchange, but also the complicated ties between coloniser and colony. Today, its presence on menus across continents underscores that history of migration and reinvention.

What Goes Into Kedgeree? Classic Ingredients And Modern Variations

The foundation of kedgeree has remained steady through centuries, though it has allowed space for variations.

The classic British kedgeree includes:

• Cooked basmati rice
• Smoked haddock or other flaky white fish
• Boiled eggs
• Butter or ghee
• Mild curry powder
• Fresh herbs like parsley or chives
• Lemon juice for brightness

Some traditional versions include cream or milk for a softer texture. The fish is usually poached, flaked, and folded into rice with spices. Eggs crown the dish, with herbs and lemon to finish.

Modern variations of kedgeree include:

• Vegetarian versions with mushrooms or paneer
• Vegan takes with coconut milk and tofu
• Additions like peas, spinach, or roasted nuts
• Spicier renditions with garam masala or green chillies

These adaptations show how kedgeree continues to be versatile, bridging Indian origins and British influences while staying relevant to contemporary kitchens.

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Kedgeree Vs Khichdi: The Key Differences

Though kedgeree and khichdi share ancestry, they serve different roles in their respective cultures. Kedgeree carries echoes of khichdi yet stands apart, shaped by colonial nostalgia and fusion dining.

This contrast highlights how the same base idea of rice with protein diverged into distinct cultural paths.

How To Cook Kedgeree At Home? Step-By-Step Recipe

For those who want to bring history to the plate, kedgeree is both simple and satisfying.

Ingredients:

• 1 cup basmati rice
• 200 grams smoked haddock or boneless white fish
• 2 boiled eggs
• 2 tablespoons butter or ghee
• 1 teaspoon mild curry powder
• 1 small onion, finely chopped
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley or coriander
• Juice of half a lemon
• Salt to taste

Method:

• Rinse and boil basmati rice until fluffy. Drain and set aside.
• Simmer the fish in water or milk for 5-7 minutes until cooked. Flake gently and remove bones.
• In a pan, heat butter or ghee. Add chopped onion and sauté until golden.
• Stir in curry powder and cook for 1 minute.
• Add rice and flaked fish to the pan. Mix gently to coat with spices.
• Slice boiled eggs and place on top. Sprinkle with herbs and lemon juice.
• Serve warm with toast or a light salad.

Variations:

• For vegetarian kedgeree, substitute mushrooms or potatoes.
• For a vegan version, omit eggs and use coconut oil.
• Add Indian spices like cardamom or fennel for deeper flavour.

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Kedgeree In Modern British Food Culture:

Today, kedgeree is not just a Victorian relic. In Britain, it continues to appear on menus at traditional bed-and-breakfasts, is reimagined by chefs in modern cafés, and features in cookbooks that celebrate Anglo-Indian food history. For some, it is nostalgia on a plate; for others, it is a trendy brunch option that brings a touch of heritage to contemporary dining.

Its versatility ensures it fits seamlessly across occasions - from Sunday brunch tables to festive spreads. This ability to feel both traditional and current is part of what keeps kedgeree relevant.

Health Benefits Of Khichdi And Kedgeree:

Part of the reason both khichdi and kedgeree endure is their nutritional balance. Khichdi is light, protein-rich, and easy to digest, often prescribed as a recovery food. Kedgeree, though richer, still combines rice, fish, and eggs to create a meal that is filling and balanced.

• Protein-rich: Eggs and fish in kedgeree provide high-quality protein.
• Wholesome carbs: Rice offers energy without being heavy.
• Gentle on digestion: Both dishes are relatively light compared to fried breakfasts.
• Customisable diets: Vegetarian or vegan versions allow flexibility without losing nutrition.

In an age where wellness plays a central role in food choices, kedgeree finds itself appreciated once again as a nourishing, adaptable dish.

Global Interpretations Of Kedgeree:

While its roots lie firmly in India and Britain, kedgeree has echoes in other parts of the world. In Sri Lanka, rice dishes with lentils and fish show striking similarities. In the Caribbean, rice-and-fish plates carry colonial traces linked back to kedgeree. Even in Southeast Asia, rice cooked with proteins and mild spices reflects the same comfort-driven ethos.

This global footprint illustrates how kedgeree is not confined to a single nation's identity but part of a wider story of culinary migration.

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Why Kedgeree Is Gaining Popularity Again?

Kedgeree has re-emerged as chefs and home cooks look back at colonial recipes and global food stories. As National Geographic notes, kedgeree embodies migration, adaptation, and culinary creativity. It brings together memories of Indian kitchens and British breakfasts, and has been championed by names like Madhur Jaffrey and Jamie Oliver.

In recent years, kedgeree has been revived on brunch menus, in fusion restaurants, and at wellness retreats. Its balance of protein, rice, and spices makes it both nourishing and versatile.

The appeal lies in its qualities:

• Easy to prepare
• Comforting yet sophisticated
• Steeped in history and flavour
• Adaptable to varied diets

Kedgeree's continuing relevance proves how food travels, adapts, and becomes part of shared heritage. Whether you grew up with khichdi or first tried kedgeree at a café, this dish offers a taste of history with every spoonful.