Weekend getaways during monsoon in Mumbai are not just enticing, but necessary after a point. The city feels full of inconvenience once the heaviest rains arrive, and the prospect of escaping to the hills, a few hours' drive away, becomes especially tempting. While I have often travelled to hotspots Lonavala, Khandala and Mahabaleshwar during this time, a recent trip took me to Nashik via Igatpuri and showed me a side of my home state I had not explored thoroughly before. My destination was Sula Vineyards, India's pioneering winery, located near the Gangapur dam.
What made the journey memorable right from the beginning was the amazing views that greeted us after we exited Mumbai. The monsoon had turned the greenery an awe-inspiring shade of lush green. Thick forests, vibrant plains and unencumbered lands stretched out on either side as far as the eye could see... we had had an early morning start, and I was drowsy, but the beauty of the landscape kept me awake. We reached Nashik in less than 5 hours (including a breakfast stop). My travelling companion and I, as well as the rest of our group, were put up at The Source, one of the key luxury properties on the premises. This boutique hotel features Tuscan-style design motifs.
My room was furnished simply but comfortably. The ambience made me feel like I was staying at a relative's bungalow in the countryside: old-school wooden furniture, a cosy balcony looking out over the lawn, a spacious washroom that would be impossible to have in a city apartment, etc. The room was equipped with all the regular amenities that a hotel of this scale would provide. My only concern was that there was no lift in the wing where our rooms were, which left us to navigate stairs with footwear that had turned slippery in the rain. Nearby, there was a small pool and a games room where we relaxed after a long day of wine tasting.
We took many of our meals in La Bodega, the all-day farm-to-table restaurant. The lunch and dinner menu offers Pan-Asian, Indian, and Italian staples along with a few other comfort food options. Sula also has another dining destination - Rasa Restaurant - located in the main section beyond the hotel, with a menu focused on Indian and Italian flavours. In terms of food, I liked the breakfast offerings the best. The essence of the buffet spread was warm wholesomeness, which was much needed ahead of an alcoholic binge. I enjoyed fluffy omelettes (made fresh from the live station), tikhat misal pav, fresh fruits and yummy ragi waffles.
Various members of Sula's winemaking team hosted a day of tastings and technical sessions. The event featured interactions with experts who led us through different stages of wine production while presenting a selection of current releases. The day opened at the Vinorama Tank Room, where Rahul More (Deputy General Manager of Winemaking and exports), discussed fermentation and early-stage wine development. We got a glimpse of the machinery used to crush different grapes. We were briefed about the basics of how wine-making begins: when grapes are harvested, how they are transported, which ones are crushed with seeds (or without), etc. We also sampled wines directly from the tank, which was a delightful experience.
This was followed by a session at Beyond by Sula, the other luxury property located a short drive away. While The Source is known to be vineyard-adjacent and closer to the hub of activities, Beyond offers more of a secluded retreat. While feasting our eyes on the natural beauty around us, we attended a guided masterclass led by winemakers Rupali Bhatnagar and Yogesh D. Patil. We tasted and learnt about several wines, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc Reserve, Grenache Rose, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, a sparkling wine, and Moscato. The session focused on grape varietals, stylistic choices, and personal differences in taste. Next, we returned to the main premises for a barrel room segment where we tasted a single wine at different stages of maturation. Neil Fernandes (Associate Vice President & Senior Winemaker) explained the anatomy of wine barrels and how they affect various aspects of wine over time.
Food was served alongside the tastings, with a menu curated by Executive Chef Shrikant Ashok Sanglodkar. Dishes included Aluwadi with koshimbir mousse, Chicken Kolhapuri, Paneer Kadhai, etc., designed to accompany the wines served during the sessions. The programme concluded with a fun "Craft Your Blend" activity at the Rasa Tasting Room, bringing the day's tastings and demonstrations to a close.
Our group was a mixed one: it ranged from people who were completely unfamiliar with wine to enthusiasts with an enviable collection of wines at home. I was somewhere in the middle of this spectrum, and enjoyed discussions with fellow attendees from both ends. Sula's experts answered all sorts of questions from the beginners and the connoisseurs, making everyone feel at ease. It is not an easy feat to achieve, especially since this is far from the usual kind of leisurely excursion for a majority of the population in India.
Learning about wine from passionate experts and experiencing well-organised guided tastings were the highlights of my stay at Sula Vineyards. But if there was one other aspect that stood out, it was the simple act of cycling around the plot. It was not cinematic in the sense of how we often see people on screen cycling against the backdrop of large vineyards in movies - the area here was much smaller. But there was something inherently wonderful about speeding past the neat rows of vines, soaking in the sun that peeped out after hours of rain and enjoying the crisp, cool air coming from the mountains a short distance away.
Wines, wheels and waffles... I think I just found my new criteria for what I consider a fun getaway from the city.