Anglow, one of the latest entrants in the bustling food scene of Khan Market, is a fascinating trip down the memory lane. Showcasing some of the delecta Anglo-Indian delights, Anglow tries to bring back many recipes that we lost somewhere in the annals of History. Indians and their bitter-sweet relationship with the British lasted for two centuries. Among all European traders India saw, British stayed the longest; their influence was naturally even deeper. When it came to food, we managed to strike a good barter too. They got us breads and we introduced them to an array of spices. The Anglo-Indian cuisine, thus, became a mishmash of both the worlds. The relationship between colonisers and the colony may have been a hostile affair otherwise, but in terms of food, both the parties were way more embracing. The British settlers had to re-imagine a lot of their classics, retaining both the British flavours and making room for all that this new land had to offer. Certain Indian dishes were also tweaked according to their palate. Indian khansamas and cooks of British housewives played a huge role into curating what we see today as 'Anglo-Indian cuisine.'
The Anglo-Indian cuisine was truly celebrated in colonial institutions like gentleman's clubs, railway kitchens and Army messes - this is where restrauteur Ajit Singh has drawn inspiration for his latest venture. Spending a good part of his life in Army clubs, he has tried to incorporate bits from his nostalgia in the carefully crafted menu. The menu also boasts of some exquisite whiskey cocktails and wine which again borrows from elements of yore.
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Vintage furniture, lamps, and wooden staircase have a comforting vibe of a living room suspended back in times of the British Raj. The black and white photographs and collectibles are a delightful blast from past too. Spread across two floors, majority of the space in first floor is occupied by the stylish bar. The walls coloured in hues sombre hues of green and turquoise complements the woodwork, which is a dominating motif as far as the decor is concerned.
We tried their smoked chicken and jalapeno toast. The combination of buttered white bread topped with smoked chicken, cream cheese and jalapeno is a deliciously balanced appetiser. Next, on our table was the non veg platter, a delicious assortment of shami kebabs, fish cakes, deviled eggs and crunchy okra, this platter is the perfect answer to all your meaty cravings. We loved the tender fish oozing with fresh burst of flavours.
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The shami kebabs, cooked the same way as they were in the times of British, have the right amount of crunch, softness and the smoky aftertaste. The crunchy okra is crisp and cooked to perfection. We also tried the Mulligatawny soup, the quintessential Anglo-Indian confluence of rasam and English soup. The peppery, soothing soup is a quite a treat. For our mains, we tried the railway mutton curry. We were told that the dish was invented in the railway kitchen, where they wanted to cook the mutton curry for Sahibs that would last their entire trip from Calcutta to Bombay and back to Calcutta. To increase the shelf life, they added vinegar to the curry and tempered the spicy quotient by adding coconut milk. The curry was fine for those who like their curries to be mellow; however, we wish the Malabar parotta served alongside it was better cooked. What also did not strike a chord with us was Chilly fish and lime kedgeree. A mushy porridge of rice and pulses, mixed with chopped fish, chillies and lime could be called a distant cousin of khichdi. We felt the portion of fish used in kedgeree was a little too scanty. Also, one could not tell the flavour of lime at all.
We loved the ever-so-comforting shepherd's pie. An eclectic mix of minced meat and mashed potatoes, this comforting winter dish is an absolute winner.
Among cocktails, we tried a range of drinks both robust and mellow. Our favourites were the ginger fume whiskey cocktail, the frothy coffee and caramel cocktail and the zesty elderflower vodka cocktail. In desserts, we loved the warm and melt-in-mouth bread pudding, and delicately balanced crème brulee.
Where: 57, Khan Market, New Delhi
Meal for Two: Rs. 3000, without Alcohol
Timings: 12 Noon - 12 Midnight