Broccoli and Potato Soup With Rich, Complex Flavors

Sometimes it's an ingredient that makes a dish shine: an unexpected jolt from lime pickle, say, or the toasty sweetness of a well-placed drizzle of maple syrup. But sometimes it's all about technique. And such is the case with this broccoli and potato soup. The ingredients list makes it sound like a pleasant-but-quiet thing, a soup you'd slurp without thinking much about it.One spoonful proves otherwise. With a brawny, dark brown undertone, this soup is complex and rich, yet still fresh and green-tasting. You may think the broccoli was simmered in broth made from roasted bones, but the dish is made with only water, vegetables and a little butter.
The secret, which I learned from Andrew Feinberg at Franny's restaurant in Brooklyn (and with whom I wrote a cookbook), is searing the broccoli in oil - but on only one side. It's a genius idea. The seared side is cooked until the florets turn potato-chip crisp and mahogany brown. The other side is left untouched, green and fresh tasting, the essence of broccoli. The combination of flavors gives the soup its depth.Browning meat is a time-honored technique for adding a caramelized flavor to stews, but it's not often done with vegetables for soups. It should be. At Franny's, Feinberg uses the same method for his zucchini soup. And I intend to try it for a soup made of turnips, which my CSA ensures I have many of, and which are always better browned.To Feinberg's original broccoli soup recipe, I added some potatoes for body and creaminess. It makes for a thicker, more filling soup than his version, and works well as a main course rather than as a starter. But feel free to use more broccoli instead of potatoes if you'd rather keep it on the lighter side. I also added some lemon zest and chili flakes for brightness.You can purée the soup to be as smooth or as chunky as you like. I go for middle ground, with just enough texture to keep my teeth engaged. But if you'd prefer something silkier, just keep the motor going on your blender. Then serve it up - a complex, hearty, warming bowl of soup made from the simplest of ingredients. Which is sometimes all you need.Seared Broccoli and Potato SoupTime: 45 minutes
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more as needed
2 heads broccoli (about 2 pounds), separated into small florets, stems peeled and diced
2 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt, more to taste
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large Spanish onion, diced
5 cloves garlic, chopped
1/2 teaspoons black pepper, more for finishing
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 pound potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
Grated Parmesan, to finish
Flaky sea salt, to finish1. In a large soup pot, heat 2 tablespoons of oil over high heat. Add about a third of the broccoli, just enough so that it covers the bottom of the pan in a single layer without overcrowding. Cook broccoli without moving it for about 3 to 4 minutes, or until dark brown on 1 side only (leave the other side bright green). Transfer to a big bowl and repeat with remaining broccoli and more oil. When all the broccoli has been browned, season with 1 teaspoon salt and set aside.2. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add butter and remaining 2 tablespoons of oil to pan. Add onions and garlic, black and red peppers, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook onion-garlic mixture until soft and translucent, about 4 minutes. Add potato to the pot with 1 quart water and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Bring to a simmer, cover pot and cook until potato is just tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Add broccoli, cover again and cook until tender, another 5 to 10 minutes.3. Add lemon zest and roughly purée soup with an immersion or regular blender, leaving some small chunks for texture. Stir in lemon juice. Finish with grated Parmesan, a drizzle of olive oil, black pepper and flaky sea salt.Yield: 4 to 6 servings© 2014 New York Times News Service