The term "shellfish" covers an ocean's-worth of molluscs and crustacea, so for brevity's sake I've chosen a few favourites that anyone can tackle. Although farming has made shellfish a year-round treat, any month with an "r" in it is the time to tuck into native species.
At the counter
Freshness is everything. All shellfish should smell of the sea, but not fishy. Molluscs - mussels et al - are purged before sale to purify and remove grit. To check they are alive, tap open shells firmly on the worktop. Throw away any that do not close, plus any with breaks or cracks. Fresh prawns will have bright beady eyes, intact legs and shiny shells.Back home
Remove from plastic bags, put into a bowl and keep covered with damp kitchen paper at the bottom of the fridge. In-shell scallops and oysters should sit rounded-side down to preserve their juices. Stored properly, shellfish will survive for a couple of days, though I prefer them to hit the pan before sunset.Mussels, clams and cockles
Small sweet clams and mussels cook in a flash, their briny liquor almost as important as the nuggets within. After checking for signs of life, scrub in cold water, and for mussels, knock away barnacles with a cutlery knife, then pull away any weedy beards. Rope-grown mussels tend to be less barnacly. Discard any that stay closed in the boiling pan.Advertisement
Oysters
Prized native oysters are in season when there's an "r" in the month, whereas Pacific oysters are for up grabs year-round. To shuck, hold flat-side-up in a cloth, insert an oyster knife just next to the hinge, and work it into the shell. Twist the blade to pop it open. Release the meat, pick out any shell, then keep on ice before you dress, slurp or chew. If buying on the half-shell, look for plump meat with plenty of juices.Prawns
Coldwater prawns are cooked and frozen at sea. Peel and dip little-finger-size beasties into mayo or tip prepared frozen prawns straight into quick curries. Big, raw, whiskery prawns (buy only certified stock) from warmer shores are juiciest cooked whole, or peeled, cleaned and sometimesbutterflied.To peel, pinch tightly behind the head and twist the body away. Prise the shell and legs from the body, leaving the tail end if you like. Remove the black thread along the length of larger prawns with the tip of your knife. To butterfly, cut down to the middle of the prawn along the meat, then open out. Keep or freeze heads and shells for stock-making.Advertisement
Scallops
Hand-dived king scallops and queen scallops from accredited fisheries make a sustainable choice. For prepared scallops, choose fresh-smelling but drier, beigey fish over bright white specimens. The latter are waterlogged, and tricky to sear.To open a live scallop, hold the shell flat-side up. Prise open at the hinge end using an oyster knife, then scrape a thin, flexible knife under the flat shell. Once open, scoop with a spoon, discard the frills and dark digestive area, then trim away the small pearly section that sits on the side of the meat. Cut large scallops in half horizontally into two discs to prevent overcooking. The orange corals cook fast and can pop in the pan, so I prick mine with a knife and fry them separately to the white meat. Boil the shells first if you plan to use them for serving. Jane Hornby is the author of What to Cook and How to Cook It (Phaidon). To order a copy for £18.49 (RRP £24.95), visit theguardian.com/bookshop or call 0330 333 6846Put into practice: spaghetti allo scoglio
Serves 450g clams
500g mussels
60ml dry white wine
90ml olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 red chillies, finely chopped
8 medium-size raw prawns, peeled and deveined (heads reserved)
4 medium-size langoustine, cut in half
400g spaghetti
A handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
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