The trickMozzarella should melt rather than cook. It needs just a minute or two under the grill in order to soften. Once it has started to change colour to gold then it will toughen. Keep the cooking quick and watch the cheese carefully. There is no need to salt the aubergines first.
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The twistTry spreading a thin layer of pesto on the grilled aubergines before adding the mozzarella. Use a little tomato or chilli sauce on the aubergines, under the cheese. Add garlic to the basil dressing. Goat's cheese is an alternative to the mozzarella, use it in thick slices cut from a log. Rosemary, thyme sprigs and pine kernels could be scattered over the cheese before grilling.Vote for your favourite local restaurant, cookbook, food personality and more! Everyone who votes is automatically entered into a prize draw to win a Caribbean holiday. For more details, see theguardian.com/observer-food-monthly-awardsEmail Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater
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