Season's Eatings: Baked Rhubarb

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Season's Eatings: Baked Rhubarb
Celebrate the arrival of spring with perky crimson rhubarb. Roast it into tender batons and fill your kitchen with a sweet orange scent

Rhubarb is available all year round, as it grows well in a hot house, and can be "forced" (a process by which the plant's crown is covered, forcing the rhubarb to produce early), but rhubarb is still a symbol of spring. We have such mild winters in Australia, there's no great melt, except in alpine regions. There's no cracking of frozen lakes, no creak and groan of unfreezing. It's only imported trees that lose their leaves - for the most part winter is still green. But we still have a yearning for warmth, and there's a great celebration in the lengthening days. Rhubarb, with its perky crimson stalks, waving its giant triangular leaves, is a celebration. Roast it because although the days are warming, the nights are still cold and you're still going to want the comfort of the oven on. In its preparation rhubarb is usually treated as a fruit, but it is a perennial vegetable. Plants can grow and produce for up to, and often beyond 15 years. Stalks can vary in colour from green to a bright red. The green stalks are just as delicious, but I always miss that glorious red. Smaller stalks will be tender, while thicker stalks tend to become stringy. Stalks the size of a finger are a good measure. Do not eat the leaves, they're poisonous.
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Roasted rhubarb is a simple recipe. With only a handful of ingredients, and a short method, the art lies in catching the rhubarb when it is just the right consistency. Rhubarb has a tendency to collapse suddenly. When it does it doesn't change the flavour, it will still taste very good, but if it is allowed to collapse it will emerge from the oven more like stewed rhubarb. It seems a delicate art, but really it's easy - just make sure you check it regularly after the first 20 minutes. As it's roasting it will fill the kitchen with a sweet orange scent. The sugar will melt into a hot pink syrup. We served the rhubarb atop waffles for breakfast, drizzled with syrup and with a dollop of whipped cream.
Baked rhubarb 1 bunch rhubarb (500g), washed, the ends trimmed, and cut into 5-10cm lengths
125g castor sugar
Zest of one orange
2 vanilla beans, split down its length
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Pre-heat the oven to 180C (350F). Lay rhubarb on a tray in one layer. Sprinkle the sugar over the rhubarb evenly, zest the orange over the top and place the vanilla beans atop. Cover, either with a lid or foil, and roast for 20 minutes. When they're ready they need to be soft but still holding their shape, so after the first 20 minutes check every few minutes until they are. Test them with a knife. Serve hot with waffles or pancakes. Or dish them up cool in a fool, or for breakfast, warm over porridge. Kick off spring with roasted rhubarb, served here with waffles and ice cream. Photograph: Lauren Bamford 
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