Royal Dining Sans Stiffness: How The Silver Train In Lower Parel Offers A Delightful Taste Of History

When dining at a new restaurant, I love to be taken by quiet surprise and feel my horizons gradually broadened with each dish (and drink). While some diners seek familiarity, I'm often more fascinated by how chefs play with the concept and plate delicacies that feel grounded yet refreshing. A recent dinner at The Silver Train restaurant in Phoenix Palladium Mumbai showed me just how delightfully culinary traditions of the past can be balanced with the needs of the present. Simultaneously, it was heartening to see the restaurant break stereotypes about royal cuisines in India - providing both research-led perspectives and extremely fun facts about how different rulers ate, how their kitchens functioned, what ingredients were cherished and much more.

About The Founders Of The Silver Train

Restaurateur Shravan Juvvadi and Chef Anuradha Joshi Medhora founded the Silver Train restaurant. Shravan is best known for establishing Tabula Rasa, an open-air bar and restaurant in Hyderabad. He pointed out that, so far, most royal-centric dining options are usually limited to North Indian cuisines. The duo wanted to ensure that different regions and their histories are represented on the menu. That's where Chef Anuradha especially shines. As the founder of Charoli Foods, she made a name for herself as a researcher and innovative storyteller who spotlighted lesser-known recipes and celebrated the richness of Malwa's royal culinary traditions. In co-founding The Silver Train, she has capitalised on her historical forte and expanded her canvas to include palace kitchens across the country.

At its heart, The Silver Train is rooted in scholarship. But it also ensures it manages the practicalities of dining out through several measures. The first is its location. Chef Anuradha told us that the mall was her first choice as she wanted it to be accessible to regular customers. She didn't want it to seem like an intimidating establishment tucked away in a hotel or some "destination" one has to go out of the way to reach. She wants common people to be able to get the chance to discover first-hand Indian dishes they may never have heard of, and also understand their history.

Food At The Silver Train

The structure menu reflects the practicality of her vision. The signature Silver Thali is a thoughtfully designed, seven-day rotating offering that changes daily. Details like freshly churned makhan and the use of jaggery reflect both historical practice and balance in flavour. Over the course of a week, diners are introduced to a varied spread of royal dishes from different parts of the country. This sense of diversity continues with the restaurant's 'Ek. Do. Chaar.' format for the a la carte section. Starters and mains can be ordered in portions suited for one, two, or four people. Inspired by the fluidity of royal dining, whether for a single craving or a shared feast, the approach keeps the meal personal and adaptable.

Thanks to this concept, we could comfortably try numerous dishes without worrying about wastage. The appetisers were one hit after another. We relished treats like the divinely soft Chanar Paturi, rich Makai Akhrot Ke Kebab, Maratha-style Kesar Kombdi Kebab, piquant Pudukottai Fish Fry, and tender Maharaja Bubbles' Shami Kebab.

The mains continued to amaze, with delicacies such as the Badami Paneer, Chettinad Black Pepper Chicken, Dogra Chicken Kofta Barah Bhunai Ka Kheema (a special mutton keema that is roasted 12 times). There were several flatbread options available, and the one that became our new favourite was Ghura Naan. This delight, made using a 15th-century recipe, is enhanced with grapes, basil and ajwain. Don't miss the chance to taste it.

No meal could be truly regal without fantastic desserts. Don't expect to simply be served overloaded halwas here. What you instead get to try are discoveries like the Bennami Kheer. It is actually a garlic kheer inspired by a recipe made for Emperor Jehangir, who hated garlic. When he was instructed to eat it to relieve a sickness, a cook creatively decided to boil it to reduce its pungency. We can attest: the deliciousness of the final result makes you wonder how garlic can be used in dessert! If you want a different genre of sweet treat, opt for France Via Cochin. Delicate yet indulgent, it combines mille feuille, chocolate pudding and cherry jam enhanced with pepper from Kochi. The spice gives it a kick and lift as the textures harmonise: it's a memorable sensation.

Drinks At The Silver Train

The bar programme has been curated in collaboration with Elevenses Hospitality, founded by industry experts Nikhil Merchant and Zamir Khau. The menu has been purposefully divided into different sections to ensure there is truly something for every customer, Nikhil explains. Just like the food, the drinks pay homage to Indian history, royalty and grandeur. We recommend starting with the signature Milk Punch, a milk-washed cocktail with refreshing notes of pineapple and spiced hints of chai and nutmeg. Its layered flavours are subtle and soothing. The other signature cocktails provide informed Indian twists on classics. They celebrate the intricacies of desi ingredients rather than presenting over-the-top concoctions. Among these, we were wowed by the Jadi Booti Negroni - but not from the first sip. It grew on us slowly, as if it were a tonic slowly taking effect. The green-coloured elixir came enhanced with mint liqueur, chamomile bitters and betel leaf: it is strangely scrumptious.

Those preferring lighter sips can enjoy the 'Teatales,' which are low ABV sparkling wine spritzers. And if you're not drinking alcohol, savour Drytales (special zero-proof cocktails) or the fabulous Sharbats made in-house. One that blew us away was the Chameli Bagh: a refined, fizzy mix of jasmine, coriander and lime.

Ambience At The Silver Train

Conceived by Sumessh Menon Associates, the space moves away from overt grandeur and instead reframes regal aesthetics through craft, memory, and detail. Rather than recreating palace interiors, it borrows selectively from them, drawing on ornamentation, colour, and material richness. The references unfold gradually: sculpted surfaces, ceramic installations, tropical motifs layered over a silver railway track, vaulted ceilings, and statement lighting coexist with botanical art and softer textures. There is a sense of play built into the space: a deliberate lightness that sidesteps the stiffness often associated with heritage-inspired dining. Instead of formal grandeur, the restaurant evokes a more relaxed, indulgent corner of palace life, where curiosity, conversation, and pleasure once took precedence.

Final Thoughts

By the end of the meal, we were stuffed not only with great food but wwith onderful stories. It almost felt like visiting a museum of sorts: only instead of glimpsing at artefacts and reading legends, we were tasting histories on a platter - as best as they could be represented and reimagined for the palates of diners today. Chef Anuradha revealed that the basic idea of this venture is something she has been nurturing for around 10 years. Like fine aged wine, we felt that the details have matured over time to become the prized possession that it is today. And it is a great win for foodies in the city, too.