Some meals begin before the first plate arrives. Mine began on the drive to ITC Grand Bharat, where the city thinned out and the evening took on a quieter shape. I have been to Bukhara at ITC Maurya often enough to know its rhythm and energy. You go there expecting a certain style of service, a certain sense of occasion, a certain intensity around the tandoor. With The Royal Afghan, I expected something familiar. What I did not expect was how naturally it would settle into its own identity while carrying that unmistakable lineage.
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A Setting That Shapes The Evening Without Trying Too Hard
The Royal Afghan sits beside a calm pool inside ITC Grand Bharat. The moment you enter, nothing screams for attention. The lighting is soft, the tables feel generously spaced out, and the overall mood has a relaxed confidence that lets you settle in without ceremony. It is not dramatically different from what you may know of frontier-style dining, yet the absence of city noise makes the experience feel more open and unhurried.
The staff carry this tone forward. They move with a steady rhythm, attentive but never over-present, respectful of the stillness that defines the space. Everything is paced just right. You feel looked after, not managed.
Food That Speaks In The Language Of Charcoal And Patience
The Royal Afghan does not deal in unnecessary flourishes. It cooks with fire, smoke, time and technique. The menu mirrors the familiar signatures of North West Frontier cuisine, yet each dish feels as if the kitchen has taken the idea seriously rather than simply replicating it.
Murgh Tandoori
Juicy, charred at the edges, and seasoned with restraint. The flavours are clear, and the heat is measured. The chicken is the first sign that the kitchen respects the ingredient more than the garnish.
Barrah Kebab
This was one of the strongest dishes of the evening. The lamb carried deep smoke but did not lose its tenderness. The crust held firm while the inside stayed soft. The seasoning was confident without being heavy. It reminded me of why this style of cooking has endured for so many years.
Dal Bukhara
The true test of any frontier kitchen. Slow-cooked, glossy, comforting and rich without being overwhelming. The version here has the same familiar foundation, softened slightly by the resort's gentler energy. The flavour stays with you long after the bowl is cleared.
Tandoori Jhinga
Fresh, plump prawns lifted by the natural sweetness of the meat and the subtle char from the grill. It is a deceptively simple dish that often goes wrong in other kitchens. Here, it did not falter.
Breads
The naan is soft and consistent, made for scooping up the dal and wrapping around the kebabs. Nothing distracts. Everything supports.
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A Familiar Lineage Without Forcing A Comparison
What struck me most was how familiar the experience felt. Not repetitive, but recognisable. The Royal Afghan understands the grammar of the cuisine that Bukhara helped define. The smoke, the slow cooking, the restraint, the reliance on the tandoor, the refusal to overcomplicate flavours. All of it connects the two restaurants.
Yet this did not feel like a smaller version or an extension of the original. The differences were subtle but noticeable. The room was calmer. The lighting is softer. The hospitality is more relaxed. The food arrived with the confidence of frontier cooking but without the pressure that comes from serving in a dining room as storied as Bukhara.
The surprise was not in a dramatic departure. It was in how naturally the familiar elements settled into a setting that felt less formal and more reflective. A shared lineage with its own pulse.
Hospitality That Knows When To Step Back
The service at The Royal Afghan understands when to step forward and when to step back. The staff know the menu well, describe dishes without scripts, and pace the meal with an ease that suits the environment. There is a comfort in how the team works, and that comfort extends to the guest.
Verdict: A Frontier Experience That Holds Its Own
The Royal Afghan does not chase reinvention. It does not need to. What it offers is clarity. Frontier cooking presented with confidence, cooked with patience, served with warmth and framed by a setting that gives the meal room to breathe.
If you arrive expecting the energy of a city landmark, you will not find it. What you will find is the same spirit expressed with a quieter temperament. Familiar yet fresh. Rooted yet relaxed. A reminder that some culinary traditions do not need noise to assert themselves.
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And that is what makes the experience worth the drive.
Where: ITC Grand Bharat, Gurgaon
Price for two: Rs. 5,000 (approx.)