20 Years Of Wasabi: In Conversation With The Japanese Maestro, Chef Masaharu Morimoto

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We sat down with Chef Masaharu Morimoto, founder of the iconic restaurant Wasabi by Morimoto, which is celebrating its 20th anniversary this year.

20 Years Of Wasabi: In Conversation With The Japanese Maestro, Chef Masaharu Morimoto
Chef Morimoto is one of the most celebrated Japanese chefs in the world

When you meet one of the world's leading Japanese chefs, you have to ask him about sushi. So I did - and his approach, in his words and on the plate, was all about simplicity and satisfaction. "Find a chef or a restaurant you absolutely trust - that's my only advice," says Chef Masaharu Morimoto, when asked about finding good sushi. Today, certain generations of foodies worldwide are interested in Japanese staples because of social media. But long before these delicacies could be labelled 'viral 'trends', Chef Morimoto championed them across the globe in exciting ways. "People always say that Japanese cuisine has many rules. But I am constantly thinking of how I can break them," he declares. Today, he is recognised as one of the most legendary figures in the culinary world, helming numerous restaurants that have stood the test of time.

In India, Chef Morimoto is perhaps best known for his trailblazing restaurant Wasabi by Morimoto, which first opened at the Taj Palace Hotel in Mumbai in 2004. Its establishment was significant on multiple levels. It was Chef's second-ever venture under his own name after having set up a restaurant in Philadelphia in 2001. Moreover, it holds the title of the restaurant that introduced the city to Japanese cuisine in all its masterful glory. This year, Wasabi by Morimoto is celebrating its 20th anniversary - marking two decades of delighting guests with its exquisite Japanese fare, under the guidance of its maestro.

Photo Credit: Wasabi by Morimoto

We were among the fortunate few to experience a special omakase menu curated by Chef for the 20th anniversary. The good news is that several dishes from it are set to be absorbed into the regular menu - allowing future diners to savour their legacy-enriched flavours. We had the chance to unwrap a vibrant signature salad which Chef had once presented at a gala dinner at The White House. This was followed by a heavenly sushi selection: toro aburi, spicy hamachi roll, salmon ikura and more. The mains were also befitting a feast - ours consisted of a lip-smacking lamb chop and a marvellous Grilled Chilean sea bass, cooked on robata with yuzu kosho punzu sauce. The latter, we are told, is among Chef Morimoto's favourite styles of cooking. It was paired with edamame kinoko garlic fried rice, beautifully enhanced with uni butter. The trio of desserts - musk melon brandy jelly, fig mousse, and a dreamy matcha cheesecake - marked the end of one of the most memorable meals we have relished in recent times. If you're vegetarian, know that Chef Morimoto is celebrated for his adaptability - so you can also look forward to discovering new favourites here.

Photo Credit: Wasabi by Morimoto

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After our meal, we sat down with Chef for a quick chat. Edited excerpts from our conversation are below:

1. In recent years, due to social media, the ways in which we consume food have undergone massive changes. Do you think people now have a greater appreciation for what's on their plate?

When we first opened a restaurant here and in the United States, we cared about what the food critics said. We would keep an eye out for the reviews by critics from the top publications. But now, everyone's a critic. They can say anything they want. We have always cared about regular customers too, but now we have to pay more attention to every aspect of the experience. At the touch of a button, they have access to so much information - whether it's about a chef's background, the best place to eat a particular dish, or anything else. Social media is convenient and it is helping a lot - and I'm talking about both sides of the food industry (customers and chefs).

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People often ask me what's the best way to make a specific dish or what they can do to become a better chef. One of the simplest things they can do is actually watch YouTube. I think watching how a dish is made is better than reading about it - even if you read a recipe in a cookbook 100 times, you're not going to understand it as well as if you were watching a video about it.

2. What excites you about cooking and the culinary world in 2024?

What excites me is meeting new people, discovering new cultures, and working with new ingredients. People say Japanese cuisine has a lot of rules. But I am always thinking about how I can break them. You can remove a part of the whole, and add something new. That's what I love to do and that's also how travelling inspires me. For instance, I derive a lot of power and energy from your country. I am grateful for my journey to India.

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3. At present, which ingredient are you enjoying experimenting with?

There's no particular ingredient, but there's a dish. It's the dosa and it's one of my favourite Indian dishes. I enjoy eating it and experimenting with it. I asked the chefs here all about how the batter is made and how long it's fermented. I decided to make my own dosas with different fillings like tuna, poke, tartar, etc. So, currently, I'm exploring various Indian techniques (rather than ingredients) for inspiration.

4. How do you stay creative and continue to push boundaries in your cooking?

Firstly, I have to be healthy. Secondly, I have to trust the people around me. I am now like the conductor of an orchestra. My role in the kitchen is to direct and coordinate the efforts of others. I would like to be one of the players, but I cannot. At present, according to my age and position, I have to remain the conductor.

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5. What advice would you give to budding chefs?

I would advise them to use social media to get better. I mentioned YouTube earlier. You can watch and learn so many different kinds of skills through it. A cookbook or a written recipe often doesn't give you the kind of detail a video can provide. The visual element is very important. Also, you need to love what you're doing. If you're simply in it for the money, don't do it. You need to have passion if you want to become a truly good chef.

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