Davangere Benne Dose: The Crisp, Soft Dosa From The Heart Of Karnataka

If you were to run two lines from North to South and West to East of Karnataka, they might converge in Davangere. It's why most locals will tell you that Davangere is the heart of Karnataka. For years Davangere was a cotton hub and was also known as the Manchester of Karnataka. But today more people know this as Benne Nagari (or butter land). It's this butter that is a key ingredient in a dish that started as a local phenomenon before becoming a household name across Karnataka.

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Malleshwaram in Bengaluru is some distance from Davangere but it's here that I stumbled upon a tiny dosa eatery - Malleshwaram Dose corner, that does a faithful version of a dosa that is now a state-wide phenomenon. There are many legends that surround the origins of the Davangere benne dose that some locals believe date back almost a century. Shantappa Dose hotel is believed to be one of the pioneers and then there's the immensely popular Sri Guru Kottureshwara Benne Dose Hotel in Davangere. If you're ever in Davangere, do make a stop at one of these local institutions. It's ironical that a dosa that originated in Davangere has been made more popular because of a plethora of 'dose camps' (Bengaluru's own version of a pop-up dosa eatery) in the state's capital.

While Bengaluru still swears by the classic Masala dose or Benne masala dose, the Davangere benne dose has carved a niche with its crisp yet soft textures. Malleshwaram Dose camp might be a tiny eatery but their Davangere dose truly hits the spot. The menu has five types of dosa and that's it. You can watch their dose masters weave magic at close quarters - the dosa stove is not too far from the limited seating at the restaurant.

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It was a complete contrast from my breakfast on the following day at Quattro, the all-day diner at The Leela Bhartiya City, Bengaluru's newest luxury hotel. Chef Mahender Malakondaiah is the hotel's expert on local Karnataka cuisine and he believes that it's the puffed rice in the batter that lends this dosa its soft, pillowy texture. The tricks don't end there. Maida and sugar are added just before the dosa batter is poured on to the pan. This gives the dosa its distinctive golden brown colour. And then there's the use of baking soda that creates the large holes or bubbles that also set this apart. But the biggest differentiator is the use of white unsalted butter (hence the Benne prefix) instead of ghee that truly sets this dosa apart. It tastes best with a spicy coconut chutney with curry leaves or the traditional potato palya (that's usually served with masala dose).

Davangere Benne Dose

Recipe Courtesy:

Chef Mahender Malakondaiah, Chef de partie, The Leela Bhartiya City Bengaluru

Ingredients:

1. 1 kg rice
2. 250 gms urad dal
3. 20 gms maida
4. 500 gms puffed rice
5. 60 gms sugar
6. White butter

Method:

1. Rinse dal and rice for a couple of times. Drain and keep aside
2. Soak rice and dal separately for 10 to 12 hours in water
3. Strain and add the rinsed puffed rice to the bowl containing the rinsed urad dal
4. Add the soaked ingredients in a grinder jar.
5. Add 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour (maida).
6. Add water in parts and grind to a smooth batter. A rava (semolina) like grainy consistency of the rice is also fine.
7. Take the ground batter in a bowl.
8. Add 1/4 tsp sugar. mix very well.
9. Cover and allow the batter to ferment for 8 to 9 hours.
10. Before making the dosas, add soda water to desired consistency and salt as per taste. Mix very well.
11. Cook on an iron griddle with homemade white butter
12. Serve along potato palya (gravy) and coconut chilli chutney

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