I was at Ten Degrees, one of my favourite restaurants in Kodaikanal when the conversation with the chef drifted to local ingredients around Kodai. One of the ingredients that cropped up was kalpasi (also known as Dagad phool in Hindi). The chef mentioned that kalpasi also known as black stone flower (Parmotrema perlatum) is essentially dried lichen that grows in the lower levels of Kodaikanal. They're typically found on rocks and tree branches. Not far away from Kodaikanal is the region of Chettinad in Southern Tamil Nadu which is home to the Nattukottai Chettiars. The community's trading ties around Southeast Asia have shaped the distinct identity of this cuisine. The cooking style might be rooted in the heart of Tamil Nadu but is enriched by an unusual often exotic set of ingredients. Kalpasi is one of these ingredients.
It's not just in India, lichens are used across the world. Iceland moss (Cetraria Islandica) used to be a key ingredient in northern Europe and Scandinavia. From bread to pudding to porridge, this lichen has been used in many dishes.
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In its raw state, this ingredient may not have much taste or fragrance but everything changes once it comes into contact with heat. It releases a very distinctive earthy, almost smoky flavour when it's heated with cooking oil or ghee. This is one reason why this is used in the tempering process and in biryani masalas across India.
Kalpasi is the hero ingredient in the kalpasi chicken chukka (see recipe) that I tried at Sanghamithirai at Feathers Hotel. Sangamithirai showcases regional cuisine from across Tamil Nadu and Prem Kumar, the Executive Chef of the hotel believes that kalpasi adds a wonderful dimension to this chicken chukka that works really well as a starter. The other dish I checked out was a kaikari venjanam - a thick vegetable curry that is a great accompaniment for dosa or as a side with rice and sambar or rasam. This vegetarian dish uses a mix of other spices that include cinnamon, cloves, fennel seeds and bay leaf. It also includes star aniseed, another spice that's unique to Chettinad cuisine, but it's the kalpasi that adds to the flavour profile of this dish.
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Kai Kari Venjanam
Recipe Courtesy - Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai
Kai Kari Venjanam Photo Credit: Sangamithirai, Feathers Hotel Chennai
Ingredients:
- Cooking Oil - 15 ml (Groundnut oil works best)
- Cinnamon- 2gm
- Cloves- 1gm
- Fennel seeds- 1gm
- Bayleaf-1gm
- Cardamom-1gm
- Star anise- 1 small pod
- Kalpasi-2 gm
- Coriander powder- 10 gm
- Chilli powder - 5 gm
- Turmeric powder- 2 gm
- Fennel powder- 5gm
- Chettinadu spice powder-2 gm
- Coconut paste-15 gm
- Onion - 50 gm
- Tomato - 25 gm
- Ginger garlic paste - 10gm
- A few springs of curry leaves
- A few strands of fresh coriander
- Assortment of vegetables (you can add drumstick, aubergines and potatoes)
Method:
- Heat the oil in the frying pan.
- Add the whole garam masala and onion once the oil heats up.
- Add ginger garlic paste, tomato and assorted vegetables once the onion turns golden. Sprinkle some water.
- Add all spices mentioned in the recipe. Cook until the raw smell disappears. gets out.
- Add coconut paste once the vegetables get cooked.
- Finish with fresh coriander leaves.
Kalpasi Chicken Chukka
Recipe Courtesy - Prem Kumar, Executive Chef, Feathers Hotel, Chennai
Ingredients
- Cooking Oil - 25ml
- Cinnamon- 2 gm
- Cardamom - 1gm
- Fennel seeds -1gm
- Bay leaf - 1
- Mace- 1gm
- Marathi Moggu (Kapok Buds) - 1gm
- Star anise -1 small pod
- Kalpasi - 5 gm
- Curry powder - 5 gm
- Coriander powder - 10gm
- Turmeric powder - 5gm
- Fennel powder- 2gm
- Cumin powder - 5gm
- Onion - 50gm
- Tomato -10 gm
- Ginger garlic paste -10 gm
- chopped garlic - 2 gm
- Sliced green chilli- 2
Method:
- Add oil to the pan and then add the whole spices once the oil heats up.
- Add onion and saute till it turns golden brown.
- Add ginger garlic paste and tomato once the tomato gets cooked.
- Add coriander powder, fennel powder, turmeric powder, pepper powder and cumin powder once the raw tomato gets cooked.
- Add chicken once the raw smell disappears.
- Saute until the chicken gets soft.
- Temper with oil and kalpasi.
- Finish with curry powder, curry leaves and fresh coriander.