Chettinad cuisine became one of India's first micro cuisines to be showcased in a fine dining restaurant way back in 1987. Camellia Punjabi, a renowned Indian restaurateur and author was then shaping the marketing strategy at the Taj hotels and chose the Taj Connemara in Chennai to set up Raintree, that exposed Chennai and travellers to Chennai to Chettinad cuisine. I'd like to think of Chettinad cuisine as one of India's most evolved micro cuisines. It has long been the preserve of Nattukottai Chettiars across the world and the 70-odd villages that make up Chettinad.
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Background
It's one of Tamil Nadu's most arid belts, in the state's southern corner around Pudukottai and Ramanthapuram. It's here around towns like Karaikudi and smaller villages that you will find some of Tamil Nadu's most imposing mansions. Most of these homes were built between the 1880s and 1940s, a time when the industrious Nattukottai Chettiars saw their wealth boom through their business ventures mostly in South East Asia. The community's trading ties around South East Asia have shaped the distinct identity of this cuisine.
The Cuisine
While the community shares its culinary roots with the rest of Tamil Nadu, it's the use of spices that sets it apart. You will find spices like star aniseed or ingredients like black rice (what locals call kavunni arisi), or kadal paasi (sea lichen) and Marathi moggu (Kapok buds) that are unique to Chettinad. Chettinad cuisine became popular in Chennai, the late 1980s saw the launch of Karaikudi and soon more restaurant brands and chains also joined the fray. Some of the newer restaurants also began to dilute the authenticity of the cuisine and positioned Chettinad as a fiery cuisine.
Most locals in Chettinad will tell you that their cuisine is more about the delicate balance of spices rather than dishes that numb your taste buds. Look for true blue Chettinad dishes like the Nattu kozhi Kozhambu that incorporates quintessential Chettinad spices like star aniseed and kalpasi aside from other ingredients like fennel seeds and large quantities of shallots and coconut. One of the other must try dishes is the mutton kola urundai, melt in your mouth mutton balls and the kaikari (vegetable) mandi that gets it's unique flavours from the arisi mandi (or rice water).
Best Restaurants To Sample Chettinad Cuisine In Chennai
We'll say this, you have to head to towns like Karaikudi in Chettinad for the best version of Chettinad cuisine. The Bangala in Karaikudi has long been a flagbearer of this cuisine. Chennai has its share of restaurants that serve authentic Chettinad fare:
Chettinad Stories: the next best thing to travelling all the way to the Chettinad region. Chettinad Stories that features a menu with true blue Chettinad delicacies and dishes with a delicious twist. The interiors are designed to transport you to Chettinad and the authentic flavours make it the Chettinad restaurant to beat in town.
Where: Hotel Aadithya, Arcot Road, Vadapalani
Sangamithirai: a tribute to the diverse culinary credentials of Tamil Nadu. The restaurant's evolved menu is a journey of sorts through Tamil Nadu's finest culinary traditions and regions. This restaurant leans on traditional flavours. Sangamithirai also offers a wide selection of signature Chettinad dishes like the karuppu kavuni halwa.
Where: Feathers - A Radha Hotel , Manapakkam
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Raintree, Taj Connemara: has championed Chettinad culinary heritage for nearly four decades. This indoor-outdoor restaurant is set in a verdant garden and features a well-researched menu that has stood the test of time. Aside from heirloom recipes, the menu also features an innovative list of craft cocktails.
Where: Taj Connemara, Binny Road
Chettinad Canteen: brings a unique spin to Chettinad cuisine with a sequential serving format. The restaurant offers a choice of tasting menus that are constantly refreshed to allow you to explore Chettinad's culinary traditions course by course. The setting is contemporary and the restaurant isn't shy to experiment with some bold dishes (like the Aadi kumayam sundae) that retain the soul of Chettinad cuisine.
Where: Seethamal Colony, Teynampet
Kaaraikudi: It's been four decades since Kaaraikudi (that takes its name from one Chettinad's biggest towns) made its debut as one of Chennai's first standalone restaurants to highlight Chettinad cuisine. The restaurant has expanded its menu and it's footprint; it continues to draw old timers for its popular mutton and fish curries.
Where: RK Salai, Mylapore
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