Ode, helmed by celebrated chef Rahul Akerkar, has made its name as a restaurant that celebrates the joy of cooking and sharing refined yet soulful fare. Food is often a reflection of chefs' memories. But for it to make its way into those of the diners, it needs a special touch. We recently had the chance to test this for ourselves over dinner at Ode. The restaurant has revamped its menu, incorporating many new dishes that adhere to its earlier philosophy. But these fresh additions are also meant to be a reflection of how the restaurant has evolved since its inception.
Photo Credit: Ode
We started our feast with airy bites of the Gruyere and Corn Popovers. Corn-cheese is a beloved flavour combo, and this was an elevated yet fun rendition of the same. We savoured it with a spicy tomato jam that brought a new dimension to a seemingly simple snack. The next appetiser looked to be a regular classic - Fried Calamari Rings - but ended up blowing us away. The crispiness was executed perfectly, but what made it truly stand out was the "dip" it was served with: a chutney made with green mangoes and black onion seeds. It gave the seafood treat a coastal personality that felt rooted and homely.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
Among "Not So Small Plates," the Snow Pea and Edamame Salad was a quiet stunner. Grapefruit provided extra juiciness, chestnuts and pistachios added crunch, and Manipuri black rice made the dish visually striking. The other delicacy we ordered from this section was a different type of wholesome. The Baked Merguez Mutton Meatballs were warm and hearty. The tomato base was comforting, as was the pairing with toasted garlic sourdough.
Photo Credit: Ode
The menu has a vibrant range of pasta options, and we were intrigued by the Bucatini Peperone "Carbonara" once we heard the story behind it. Chef Rahul Akerkar explained, "My wife's vegetarian. So when we travelled through Italy, carbonara was never on the table. This one's for her. We use roasted yellow peppers and ricotta not as substitutes, but as their own thing." We would have loved this dish even if we didn't know the heartwarming gesture it embodied. The lovely flavours of sage and roasted peppers won us over from the first bite.
Photo Credit: Ode
Alongside this relatively light pasta, we ordered a hearty Pepperoni pizza. It was a staple done right, with pickled onion and fennel enhancing the delightful aroma of the tomato base. Among the larger plates, the Roast Lemon Pepper Chicken with garlic mashed potatoes was a scrumptious and satiating conclusion before we moved on to dessert. Like the pasta options, we felt truly spoilt for choice when it came to the sweet treats on the menu. We picked the Baked Blueberry Streusel Cobbler, which was a novel delicacy served with limoncello ice cream. The mix of different types of tanginess - from the berries and from the limoncello - made the dessert especially enjoyable.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
Ode's cocktail menu has some cleverly named libations. The drinks are refined and distinctive, but do not steal the spotlight from the food. We started with the signature Djinn Gin (a G&T with kumquats, kaffir lime, and jasmine) along with a bubbly Moonwalk from the "Vintage Cocktails" category. Their refreshing notes complemented our meal well. The most impressive drink of the evening, however, was one which would especially catch the attention of Mumbaikars. The Ode To Pallonji pays a spirited homage to the iconic Parsi drink. The combination of rum with raspberry lemon cordial, with hints of rosemary and hibiscus, was expertly balanced. The result was smooth and suave without being too fruity or tart.
Our dining experience at Ode underscored how sophistication lies in subtlety, driven by a sound personal vision. While we often find this aspect in tasting menu-centric restaurants, it was fascinating to see it play out in a different way here. It made the meal an unforgettable one.
Address: Ode, Gate No. 4, Raheja Altimus, Pandurang Budhkar Marg, opposite Doordarshan Kendra, B Wing, BDD Chawls Worli, Worli, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400018
Price for two: Approx Rs 4500 + Taxes