After opening in Goa last year, Fireback has arrived in Mumbai with all the energy and drama its name suggests. It is located within the elegant Nilaya Anthology in Lower Parel, above Comorin. Fireback is a part of EHV International, the group behind acclaimed concepts such as Indian Accent, Comorin, HOSA and more. Celebrated chef David Thompson serves as Fireback's Culinary Director. When we visited the restaurant recently, we had the chance to interact with Brand Chef Kaustubh Haldipur, who trained under Chef Thompson in Bangkok. Like Comorin, Varun Sharma helms the bar program, and Kevin Rodrigues curates the wine list here.
Photo Credit: Vinayak Grover
The restaurant draws inspiration from Thailand's national bird, the Siamese Fireback. It channels the boldness of its namesake into both its food philosophy and design. The space is contemporary yet warm, crafted to echo the smoky intensity and refined balance that define traditional Thai kitchens. The interiors, designed by London-based Russell Sage Studio under the guidance of Rashmi Khattar, bring together sustainability, tradition, and contemporary elegance.
Photo Credit: Fireback
We kicked off our meal with bowls of the wholesome Coconut & Galangal Soup, which was a take on Thai Tom Kha. Coconut milk with savoury elements could easily veer into curry territory, but this one was firmly a soup - and a comforting and delicious one at that. The earthiness of the galangal, the fresh pop of herbs and a hint of sourness made it a unique delight. Next, we tried the Miang Kham, which will remind most Indian diners of paan because it's made with betel leaves. Fireback's version topped them with zingy pomelo, toasted coconut and roasted peanuts. The bite-sized treat is meant to be finished in one go - and the punchy flavours mean that's more than enough.
Photo Credit: Fireback
This was followed by servings of two types of Som Tam, a classic with raw papaya and a reimagined one with pineapple. While the traditional salad didn't disappoint, we enjoyed the latter much more. The fruit was wonderfully sweet and juicy. It was elevated with the tartness of a simple tamarind dressing, along with the crunch of peanuts and green beans. Among the appetisers, we enjoyed crispy Corn Fritters with ajad (a Thai cucumber relish) and an exquisite portion of Fried Pork Belly too.
Photo Credit: Fireback
We then moved to the grill section and indulged in the Chicken Gorlae. Coated in the distinctive Thai 'BBQ sauce,' the pieces melted in our mouths with a burst of robust flavours. Among the grills, we also loved the Banana Leaf Wrapped Sea Bass. Infused with red curry and coconut cream, the fish was soft, aromatic and supremely satisfying.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
Alongside the food, we tasted a range of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks. Celebrated mixologist Varun Sharma has curated a tempting list of Thai-inspired cocktails. While some of the ingredients are obvious choices, the way they are paired and presented is often surprising. And you can expect the techniques to wow you, too. For a cool and subtly sweet sip, we recommend the bubbly concoction named Rose. It can be made with either vodka or gin, and comes with a bloom in the glass. For another type of "floral" drink that's more potent, try Chrysanthemum. This is a refreshing gin-based cocktail, enhanced with orange bitter liqueur and vermouth, and topped with sparkling wine. We also loved the smoothness of the Nutty Martini. This clear vodka-based drink was superbly balanced with the hints of almond and cream.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
If you're skipping the alcohol, don't think you'll be stuck with bland iced tea. There are several zero-proof drink options (alongside teas, coffees, smoothies, etc.) here. Like Comorin, Fireback has its own range of house sodas, and we relished them to the dregs. If you're feeling a tad experimental, go for the Tom Yum one - it's quite a novelty. For a delicate sweet and sour contrast, try Coconut & Kaffir Lime, or savour a classic pairing like Thai Basil & Ginger.
Photo Credit: Fireback
Among the mains, we relished the Massaman Curry first. This warm delicacy was packed with the goodness of pumpkin, potatoes, peanuts, cumin and more. The flavours of this 'Thai' dish are known to carry influences from India, Persia, and the Malay Archipelago. In some ways, it was indeed reminiscent of Mughlai curries. Although it tasted yummy with jasmine rice, we think it would pair well with jeera rice too! We also loved the Khmoy Green Curry. But don't expect the creamy, slightly sweet Thai green curry often served at regular restaurants. Fireback's version is thinner, spicier and more aromatic. We couldn't stop ourselves from eating "just a little bit more."
Among the desserts, the Cashew Nut Pudding with caramelised taro stood out for its unpretentious charm. It reminded us of certain South Indian desserts with a similar texture. The Grilled Banana was a fun mix of cold and crunchy, featuring the fruit with Thai crispy roti and condensed milk ice cream.
What we appreciated about Fireback was the way it channelled the theatrics of Thai cuisine onto the plate in terms of pops of colours, explosions of flavour and contrasting textures. They were all combined to create a memorable meal that provided opportunities for both comfort and discovery.
Fireback Mumbai Address: Nilaya Anthology, Peninsula Corporate Park, Peninsula Point, Ganpatrao Kadam Marg, Lower Parel West, Mumbai.