There's a certain magic I experience every time I visit Chettinad. This arid belt in Southern Tamil Nadu, with easy proximity to the Madurai and Trichy airports, is easily one of South India's most enchanting destinations. The area has been shaped by the Nattukottai Chettiars, one of India's most enterprising trading communities. Their trading links with Southeast Asia, which peaked in the 19th century and the first half of the 20th century, have left an indelible impression on the region's culture, architecture, and cuisine.
To call Chettinad cuisine one of India's most evolved culinary traditions is no exaggeration. The cuisine has benefited from the community's travels and business connections over the years and incorporates unique ingredients like star anise, kalpasi (black stone flower or patthar ke phool), and black rice. Unfortunately, it has often been misrepresented in restaurants in Chennai and Bengaluru as a fiery cuisine that numbs your taste buds. Each time I am in Chettinad, it's the unique flavours (and not just zesty spice) that make an impact.
Also Read: Chettinad Kaikari Mandi: A Delicious Curry From Tamil Nadu You Just Can't Miss
While the cuisine might be best known for iconic dishes like Mutton Kola Urundai and the now-ubiquitous Chicken Chettinad, a typical Chettinad feast also features flavourful vegetarian dishes. The region is equally famous for its unique array of snacks, breakfast, and evening tiffin options. While it's impossible to explore the sheer breadth of Chettinad cuisine in one meal, here are five signature dishes you must try:
Five Must-Try Chettinad Dishes
1. Nattu Kozhi Kozhambu
Easily one of the best-known Chettinad dishes, this Chettinad-style chicken curry tastes best with nattu kozhi (free-range chicken). The flavourful gravy works equally well with rice and dosa and incorporates quintessential Chettinad spices like star anise and kalpasi, along with fennel seeds, generous quantities of shallots, and coconut.
2. Vellai Paniyaram
It might resemble an idli (vellai means "white" in Tamil), but vellai paniyaram is quite different. It starts with a batter of rice and urad dal, but milk is added after the batter settles. The final step involves deep-frying these splodges to achieve a light and crispy texture that sets this snack apart. Pair it with the spicy and tangy Dangar chutney, which leans on shallots and red chillies for its piquant flavours.
3. Mutton Kola Urundai
Many local food experts tell me that these melt-in-your-mouth mutton balls are a true-blue Chettinad dish. According to one local cook, the original recipe used raw banana but evolved into a dish made with finely ground meat. Today, the mutton version is a bestseller not only in Chettinad but also in Madurai.
Ingredients
- Minced mutton - 250 g
- Cloves - 3
- Aniseed - 3 g
- Dry red chilies - 3
- Poppy seeds - 10 g
- Fried chana dal - 10 g
- Green chilli - 1
- Grated coconut - 30 g
- Egg - 1
- Salt - to taste
- Oil - for frying
Method
- Add the cloves, aniseed, dry red chillies, poppy seeds, green chilli, and grated coconut to a bowl.
- Grind these ingredients into a smooth paste.
- Mix the paste with the minced meat and salt. Grind again to a smooth consistency without adding water.
- Add pounded fried chana dal and the egg to the mixture.
- Shape the mixture into equal-sized balls or dumplings.
- Deep-fry the dumplings until golden brown and serve hot.
4. Kaikari Mandi
This dish gets its unique flavour from arisi mandi (rice water). The rice is washed once and then soaked - typically two cups of water for 1 1/2 cups of rice - for 5-10 minutes. The rice water is then drained and used along with flavour enhancers like green chillies and garlic, which lend it a distinctive taste. There are multiple versions of mandi, including the popular vendakkai mochai mandi (a combination of okra and lima beans) and kaikari mandi (mixed vegetable mandi). It tastes best with rice or as an accompaniment to curd rice.
5. Kavunni Arisi Halwa
This was one of the first dishes I tried in Chettinad at The Bangala in Karaikudi, one of the region's most iconic restaurants. It is served during special occasions and festivals in Chettinad and is one of the best ways to wrap up a meal. The star ingredient is black rice (kavunni arisi in Tamil), which is loaded with antioxidants.
Ingredients:
- Black rice (Kavunni arisi) - 1 cup
- Water - 1 1/2 cups
- Sugar or powdered jaggery - 3/4 cup
- Grated coconut - 3/4 cup
- Cardamom powder - a couple of pinches
- Ghee - 1 teaspoon
Method:
- Soak the black rice overnight or for at least 6 hours, then drain the water.
- Pressure-cook the rice for about 15 minutes after the first whistle, reducing the flame to low.
- Add the grated coconut and stir the rice in a pan as you mix in the sugar and cardamom powder. If you prefer a mildly sweet version, use jaggery or reduce the quantity of sugar.
- Add the ghee, turn off the flame, and stir well.
Also Read: Chettinad Cuisine: Bold Flavours, Rich History, And The Spice Rack That Built A Legacy
Chettinad cuisine is more than just food - it's a celebration of heritage, spice, and soul. These must-try dishes offer a glimpse into one of India's most evolved culinary traditions.