Veeraswamy is the UK's oldest surviving Indian restaurant. But for how much longer? Located on Regent Street in Mayfair for the past 100 years, the restaurant is now facing an uncertain future, not because of financial troubles, but due to a lease dispute.
The trouble began when plans were announced to renovate the restaurant's building, Victory House. Its landlord, the Crown Estate, has reportedly said that Veeraswamy will no longer be able to operate from the premises and that its lease will not be renewed.
But how did this iconic Indian restaurant start in London? The man behind it was Edward Palmer, who founded Veeraswamy in 1926.
History Of London's Oldest Indian Restaurant
Few restaurants can trace their roots back to India's royal courts, but Veeraswamy can.
The restaurant was founded in 1926 by Edward Palmer, who came from the influential Palmer banking family in India. The family had long-standing ties with both the East India Company and Mughal royalty. Palmer's grandfather had served as banker to the Nizam of Hyderabad, one of the richest men in the world at the time.
Although Palmer moved from India to London in 1880, he remained deeply connected to Indian food and culture. Under the name E. P. Veerasawmy, he sold Indian spices and condiments, held cooking demonstrations and published recipes.
His growing interest in food eventually led him to run a temporary Indian restaurant at the British Empire Exhibition in 1924 and 1925. The venture proved hugely popular.
Palmer was also an advocate for Indian pulses and vegetable dishes, highlighting their nutritional benefits long before plant-based diets became a talking point.
By 1926, he brought together his experience in food retail, cooking and hospitality to fulfil a long-held dream: creating a restaurant that would showcase Indian cuisine while reflecting the grandeur of the royal residences he had known during his childhood.
That vision became reality on March 16, 1926, when Veerasawmy's India Restaurant opened its doors.
The restaurant quickly earned a reputation as an informal Indian embassy in London. It attracted visiting Maharajas, wealthy Indian travellers, businessmen who had developed a taste for Indian food abroad and members of London's elite society.
Over the decades, Veeraswamy became a fixture of London's dining scene. Its impressive guest list has included Winston Churchill, Charlie Chaplin and Marlon Brando, while its Michelin-starred kitchen has catered events at Buckingham Palace.
What Happens Now?
After serving diners from the same Regent Street address for almost a century, Veeraswamy now finds itself fighting for survival.
Its employees and supporters have since appealed to King Charles for help. According to a report by Metro, they hope the monarch can intervene to help preserve the historic restaurant and prevent it from being forced out of its long-time home.
Ranjit Mathrani, chairman of MW Eat, the company that owns Veeraswamy, has publicly questioned the decision.
"Would they have done that to Gordon Ramsay? No," Metro quoted him as saying.
As the legal dispute continues, staff, supporters and heritage advocates hope a solution can be found that allows Veeraswamy to remain at its historic address, preserving a unique piece of Indian culinary history in London.
About Jigyasa KakwaniJigyasa finds her solace through writing, a medium she is exploring to make the world more informed and curious with every story published. She is always up for exploring new cuisines, but her heart comes back to the comforting ghar-ka-khana.