Steaming is such a time-honoured method. No wonder then, it yielded some classics ... along with some curios.
I think I can thank the change of weather for the fact there wasn't a steamed cod fillet in sight this week - instead, I was treated to a collection of suet puddings, stuffed dumplings ... and hedgehog meatballs (you'll be surprised how tasty those spines are.)
On a cold day, however, you can't beat a sticky steamed sponge. Diane Kitchen's version contains wholemeal flour and dried fruit, which, to my mind, makes it practically a health food. Second helpings all round.
The winning recipe: traditional steamed syrup pudding
Now autumn is drawing in I'll take great pleasure in cooking this for friends, as all of our three children will have flown the nest. We have a Sunday roast club for those of us who are soon to be childless, and who love a roast but can't face the thought of cooking it for just two.
Diane Kitchen, Ilkley
Serves 6
2 tbsp golden syrup
110g wholemeal flour
2½ tsp baking powder
250g sultanas (optional)
2 large eggs
110g soft brown sugar
110g margarine, plus extra to grease
1 Grease an 850ml pudding basin and put the golden syrup into the bottom.
2 Beat together the remaining ingredients until well combined, then spoon on top of the golden syrup.
3 Cover the basin with a double sheet of greaseproof paper with central pleat. Steam for 1½ hours, adding water as required. Turn out; serve with custard.
Steamed leek and bacon pudding
I love suet; it makes such silky pastry - and surely it's cold enough now to start making this savoury pudding again. Perfect ballast against the winter.
Bronwyn Wolfe, London
Serves 4-6
200g self-raising flour, plus extra to dust
100g shredded beef suet
75g butter, plus extra to grease
350g unsmoked bacon, cut into 2cm strips
6 leeks, white and pale green parts, washed and finely sliced
150ml double cream
Salt and black pepper
1 Mix the flour with the suet, season and add just enough fridge-cold water (about 125ml) to make a stiffish dough.
2 Melt the butter in a frying pan over a low heat and cook the bacon until it starts to colour, then use a slotted spoon to remove it from the pan on to kitchen roll.
3 Fry the leeks gently in the bacon fat until softened. Take off the heat and stir in the cream, then season.
4 Generously butter a 1.5 litre pudding basin (or a glass mixing bowl). Roll the dough out to a large circle on a floured surface. Cut out a quarter section, then use the rest to line the basin, pressing the cut edges together firmly. Fill with alternating layers of leeks and bacon.
5 Roll the remaining quarter of pastry into a lid, pressing the edges together to seal. Cut 2 large sheets of foil, put them together, then butter the top sheet and fold both into a thick pleat down the centre. Put the foil, butter-side down, over the top of the pudding and tie in place with string.
6 Put a trivet into the bottom of a large saucepan and add water halfway up the sides. Bring to the boil, then gently lower the pudding into the pan, cover, reduce the heat, and cook for about 2 hours, topping up as necessary.
7 Turn out and serve with lots of mash, carrots and peas.
Hedgehog meatballs
My (Frisian) husband has a particular fondness for traditional Dutch meatballs, however, their sturdiness means they tend to be restricted to December/January. When I saw a picture of some rice-coated meatballs, I thought it would be perfect for lightening a family favourite. I've combined the rice technique from the originally Russian dish, with our favourite meatball recipe. Dutch meatballs are usually fried, but steaming makes for a lighter and more delicate texture inside, perfect for a simple supper.
Mary-Anne Boermans, Kidderminster
Serves 5
200g basmati rice
4 tbsp salt
For the meatballs
250g beef mince
250g pork mince
2 tbsp sweet soy (kecap manis)or sweet chilli sauce
½ nutmeg, finely grated
2 tbsp wholegrain mustard
½ tsp ground white pepper
1 slice of bread made into breadcrumbs - white or brown
1 large egg
For the butter gravy
80g butter
1-2 tsp plain flour
2 tbsp Bovril
1 Rinse the rice thoroughly until the water runs clear. Put in a bowl with a salt and cover with water. Stir to dissolve the salt then soak for 2 hours for tender, dazzlingly white rice.
2 Mix all the meatball ingredients togetherand form into balls. Cover lightly with clingfilm and put in the fridge to firm up.
3 Drain and rinse the rice thoroughly to remove the excess salt, then roll the meatballs in it to coat. Put each meatball in a cupcake case, and steam over boiling water for 30-40 minutes, at which point the rice should stick out like hedgehog spines. Keep warm.
4 Cook the rest of the soaked rice in boiling water; it should take 3-4 minutes. Drain well.
5 To make the gravy, melt the butter in a pan and sprinkle in the flour. Stir briefly. Add the Bovril and 250ml water and simmer until slightly thickened.
6 Serve the meatballs on a pool of dark gravy, surrounded by white, fluffy rice.
Malaysian-spiced fish cakes
A wonderful Nonya recipe from Malaysia. Traditionally it was stuffed into rolled palm or banana leaves, then roasted, baked or steamed. It can be eaten hot or cold, and is also rather nice spread on toast.I like to make this with fresh mackerel, but most white fish work. I have even made it with tinned sardines and pilchards, which were actually quite delicious.
Rachel Kelly, London; marmadukescarlet.blogspot.co.uk
Makes 8 parcels
400g fish fillets, skinned and flaked
2 tsp Thai basil leaves, finely chopped, or 4 fresh lime leaves, finely shredded
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2 limes, quartered to serve
Chilli sambal, to serve
For the paste
4 shallots, roughly chopped
2 lemongrass stalks, trimmed and sliced (tender parts only)
30g galangal or fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
4 macadamia or candlenuts, lightly toasted
4 dried chillies, rehydrated, or 3 fresh chillies, roughly chopped
1 tsp belachan (shrimp paste)
1-2 tsp ground turmeric
200g coconut cream
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
2 tsp palm sugar
1 Blend together the first 5 paste ingredients, then stir in the remainder.
2 Put the fish and herbs in a bowl, and add the paste, eggs and seasoning. Mash with a fork.
3 Place about 2 tbsp of paste off-centre on a square of foil, or banana leaf. Fold to form a parcel, leaving enough space to allow for expansion, then secure with a cocktail stick if necessary.
4 Steam over a medium to high heat for 15-20 minutes and serve with lime and chilli sambal.
Tibetan momos
You can make the spiced butter a few days before, to let the mix turn slightly cheesy. If you want to be even more authentic, store in a jar: it keeps for a few months.
Zangmo (via GuardianWitness)
Serves 4
500g strong white flour
2 spring onions, chopped
1 chilli, finely chopped
Soy sauce and meaty broth, to serve
For the filling
500g lamb shoulder, roughly chopped
1 small onion, finely chopped
A small handful of celery leaf or coriander, chopped
½ a thumb of grated ginger
1 garlic clove, finely grated
Crushed Sechuan pepper, to taste
2 tsp sesame oil
For the butter spice
1 tbsp rock salt
1 tbsp caraway seeds
1 tbsp dried red chilli, chopped
50g butter
1 Make a simple pasta dough by mixing the flour with just enough boiling water (about 200ml) to make a dough. Knead until elastic, then set aside.
2 Mix the filling ingredients with 1 tbsp or so of water, and season to taste, then chill it while you prepare the wrappers.
3 Using a pasta machine or rolling pin, roll out roughly circular, table tennis ball-size pieces of dough to 10cm across. Place 1 tsp of mix in the centre and pinch to seal.
4 Cook in a greased steamer for 15-20 minutes - ideally over a tasty bone broth.
5 Meanwhile, toast the salt and caraway seeds in a pan until fragrant. Reduce the heat then add the chilli. Grind in a pestle and mortar, then return to the pan, add the butter and stir together until it's melted. Make everyone a dipping sauce by combining the spring onions and chilli in a saucer, and topping with soy sauce.
6 Serve the momos on a large plate. Sprinkle with the caraway salt, and serve with a saucer of dipping sauce and a bowl of meaty broth on the side. Bite into them carefully - the water added to the meat steams inside the momo to make a meaty juice.
Traditional streamed syrup pudding. Photograph: Jill Mead for the Guardian