We set off towards Lonavala from Mumbai on a bright weekday morning. As we watched the rush hour city traffic on the opposite side of the road, we couldn't help but be grateful we were heading away - to the green hills, to peace and quiet and to environs steeped in history rather than modernity. Our destination: The Chavni Lohagad, a heritage resort less than a 30-minute drive from Lonavala. We made good time: it was just around 3.5 hours later (including a quick rest stop) that we started the steep climb up to the property. After the smoothness and expanse of the highways, we were not prepared for the narrow hairpin bend-like turns that characterised the path. We passed a few small waterfalls and the road leading to the 2nd-century BC Bhaja Caves.
Photo Credit: The Chavni
Nestled at the foothills between the majestic Lohagad and Visapur forts, Chavni is more than just a resort - it's a journey back in time. Inspired by the 16th-century cantonments and transit camps, this retreat is a celebration of Maratha heritage. References to art and architecture are reflected in every corner of Chavni, as we would soon discover. When we finally disembarked at the resort's gate and stepped through its fortress-like entryway, we were able to better appreciate the pains of our vehicular climb. We were met with sweeping views of hills, greenery and the horizon in front of us. Parts of the resort itself spread out around us at different elevations, covering an overall area of 4.5 acres. Our immersive experience began right from registering our check-in.
Photo Credit: The Chavni
We sat on a low cot and penned our names in the guestbook using a feather and inkpot. Given our surroundings, the feeling of being transported to the past would have been complete, had it not been for the phone number and email id categories that had to be filled out. Try imagining the Marathas with mail and mobiles! The reception nook is adjacent to the entry gate at the highest altitude within the resort - the lounge and restaurants are just a few steps away. The accommodations are scattered below and can be accessed through steep winding paths.
Photo Credit: The Chavni
One of the main hallmarks of The Chavni is that there are no conventional rooms at this resort. The experience is truly immersive. So, one can choose to stay in royal tents (Rahuti), wayside bullock carts (Sarja Raja), or a structure reminiscent of a traditional Maratha wada or mansion (Yeshwantrao Wada) - just like the travellers of a bygone age. The resort operates golf carts to transport guests, staff and luggage up and down the property - we highly recommend its use, especially for older guests. The road is paved but coarse and gravelly. The ride in the cart may sometimes have a lot of jolts, but walking every time may be equally uncomfortable for those not used to climbing up steep roads. This is also why guests are encouraged to comfortable hiking/walking shoes.
Photo Credit: The Chavni
During our trip, we stayed at one of the 'Royal Carts' - a robust canvas tent spread over a bullock cart frame with added stilts. The heavy metallic padlock on our door and its key seemed like artefacts from a museum - as does much of the interior decor. We stepped inside to discover a beautiful 'room' with a queen-sized bed, polished wooden floors, and antique furnishings. Ethnic fabrics like Paithani, Himroo and Ilkal have been used for canopies, rugs, duvet covers, curtains, etc. We moved around the space and marvelled at the aesthetic touches - going beyond the bed to spot a private sit-out. We made a mental note to enjoy our early morning cups of tea here. We freshened up in an en suite bathroom with elegant copper and brass fixtures and headed back uphill for lunch.
Yeshwantrao Wada interiors. Photo Credit: The Chavni
We mostly enjoyed walking up and down between our cart and the restaurant as the path is bordered by various shrubs and plants, including beautiful flowering ones. One of the prettiest views were sections of the hillside decked in karvi - bluish-purple wildflowers native to the Western Ghats that bloom only once every 7-8 years. The staff also pointed out some of the edible plants on our route, which are used in the kitchens here. However, we did sometimes give in and called for the buggy (Note to guests: don't underestimate the climb). We took all our meals at Randhanhaat, the all-day dining restaurant. For an intimate and personalised experience, there's also a private fine-dining space next to it. Meals here have to be pre-booked and pre-planned.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
The decor of Randhanhaat is characterised by antique wooden furniture, plush furnishings, low seating areas, handcrafted tablemats and hand-painted murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana. There's a small balcony overlooking the downhill sections of the resort. Beyond, one can spot Visapur Fort on one side and rolling green hills and valleys on the other. It was a panorama that mesmerised us each time we came up for food. Don't miss the spectacular gradient of the sky at twilight here.
View from the restaurant. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
Lunch and dinner were served as buffets, with certain additional dishes available on request. The spread was small and rustic, including a few traditional Maharashtrian delicacies as well as crowd favourites from other parts of the country. Thus, alongside staples like palak paneer, aloo bhaji, dal rice and gulab jamun, we ate local-style wangi, dudhi and matki. We would have preferred more variety, but we were satisfied with the taste. Most of the dishes were wholesome and uncomplicated, which complemented the overall theme.
During dinner, a few richer delights were added to the menu, such as a special chicken kala rassa and a spicy mutton curry. The Chavni doesn't serve alcohol. We beat the heat with simple cold beverages. Breakfast was again a mix of local delights and generic dishes. We relished our eggs to order, but we also enjoyed some fiery Maharashtrian thalipeeth with chutney and curds. For high tea, we savoured crispy bhajiyas and samosas after a dip in the infinity pool located at one of the furthest points of the property.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
During our stay, we spent hours at this secluded spot, soaking in the beauty of the wilderness surrounding us. We also spent our time playing carrom in the games room and making plans to trek to the Lohagad fort nearby. The resort curates experiences such as nature trails, fort expeditions, and guided cultural tours. Also, don't miss the chance to explore the small in-house museum next to the reception. There are displays of antique arms, artillery, vintage coins, scrolls, and various other artefacts from the Maratha period here.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
Whether you want to explore a different side of Maharashtra's cultural heritage, an escape from the bustle of Lonavala or simply an immersive resort experience surrounded by greenery, consider The Chavni Lohagad for your next trip.
Where: Post Gate No.167, Lohagad Fort, Lohagad Trek Road, Pavana Nagar, Maval, Pune.
Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni
About Toshita SahniToshita is fuelled by wordplay, wanderlust, wonderment and Alliteration. When she is not blissfully contemplating her next meal, she enjoys reading novels and roaming around the city.