Review: At Ekaa Mumbai, A Regal Feast Is Now On The Cards For You

What sustenance would you want in the afterlife? For Ancient Egyptians, who were often buried with an array of food and drink, bread was a common choice. As I bite into Ekaa's 110% Hydration Bread inspired by this civilisation, I have my answer to the question. Time and tradition have been transcended... one feels that if any bread can give new life to the dead, it would be something like this, indeed. We ourselves are blissfully rejuvenated with more bites.

This exquisite bread is part of Ekaa's recently launched Tasting Menu 5.0. Through an impressively elaborate 10-course meal, Chef Niyati Rao and her team take you on a journey through (Earth's) space and time. Chef Niyati explains, "We came across so many dishes from the past that we wished to reconnect to. We wanted to create our own versions of them. So we thought, 'Why not compile them and curate an entire tasting menu based on kingdoms of the world?' There are several stories and legends associated with each dish. History buffs are definitely going to enjoy it. But there is other trivia as well. Each course can be a conversation starter."

During my meal, I almost felt like a gourmand Doctor Who making foodie stops over the centuries using the TARDIS. After all, each course aims to transport you to a region during a particular historical era. And if we had the chance to embark on such a voyage, wouldn't we want to feast like royals? This is how Ekaa hones its focus, using storytelling to curate an experience featuring regal delicacies from a selection of global dynasties. This is not a straightforward, archival plunge into royal diets. There are signature twists in the tale.

For instance, the 110% Hydration bread reinforces its Ancient Egyptian ties with a date pairing. However, the ingredients for the latter don't come from Egypt. Instead, you are offered Indian nolen gur and buffalo milk white butter. "The bread is flavoured with coriander seeds and unripened blueberries we have freshly picked from the farms," Akshay Bhosale, Ekaa's Head Boulanger, tells us. Although the conceptualisation of Tasting Menu 5.0 requires a certain suspension in time and space, Ekaa finds ways to ground you frequently in the present and the local.

_{The Kingdom of the Tzars course. Photo Credit: Ekaa}

Among the other favourite foreign forays is Trout Roe with Smetana and Buckwheat - Ekaa's take on Russian Tzar Nicholas II's beloved "eggs on eggs". It is served with beetroot cooked in terracotta, reminiscent of the famed Faberge Eggs. The cool softness of the roe, the creaminess of the garlic-infused smetana and the crunch of the buckwheat prove how ingenuity and skill complement the storytelling here. This texture treat is followed by a flavour delight. The Kingdom Of Qings course includes soup made with goji berries, tapioca pearls, spices, and mugwort-flavoured Chinese lap cheong. The playful presentation brings to mind goldfish frolicking in a small pond, while the wholesomeness justifies the nod to the medicinal soups of imperial China.

_{Photo Credit: Ekaa}

Ekaa launched a new cocktail menu a few months back and we had the opportunity to try it alongside Tasting Menu 5.0. Although the cocktails are not part of the same narrative, they still celebrate history. Curated by Head Mixologist Jishnu AJ, the bar menu highlights the rich heritage of Ayurveda through innovative concoctions and lesser-known ingredients. We highly recommend 'Camphor', a gin-based cocktail with edible camphor, jasmine syrup, supasawa, blue pea and jasmine leaves. Another gin and supasawa option is the fascinating 'Mountain Pepper'. We also liked 'Khus', which introduced us to smoked tequila and honey black garlic.

_{Camphor cocktail. Photo Credit: Ekaa}

Returning to our culinary voyage, we relished the soul-soothing combination inspired by the Kingdom of Travancore. This course celebrates the simple, well-balanced flavours of Kerala Sadya through a horse gram thuvial, Ghandasale rice and a Nendran banana broth. It also provided a much-needed respite from the richer offerings. Each course introduced us to novel ingredients and astonishing texture combinations. Hence, we won't reveal what the Kingdom Of Siam, the Aztecs, the Marathas, the Rajputana, the Meiji Restoration, and The Vikings. You have to stop by to discover their delectable riches first-hand.

_{Photo Credit: Ekaa}

Ekaa's new menu promised to let us in on royal secrets and proceeded to give us a taste of them. Beautifully illustrated cards prefaced each course, hinting at the treats to come. As we collected them at the end of the night, we realised we had drawn a winning hand.

What: Ekaa's Tasting Menu 5.0
Where: Kitab Mahal, 1st Floor, D Sukhadwala Road, Azad Maidan, Fort, Mumbai.