How do we introduce the phenomenon that is Izumi? It is well-known as one of Bandra's buzziest hotspots, one of Mumbai's most sought-after reservations and one of India's leading Japanese restaurants. But is the attractive halo created by such descriptions just smoke and mirrors? We are happy to report it's more of a light that exudes warmth through simply delicious food. We had the chance to dine at Izumi Bandra on its reopening night following a three-month hiatus. It was our first visit to this famous spot and we got to try the revamped menu.
After the restaurant closed its doors, Chef Nooresha Kably travelled along with a team of 12 enthusiasts to three cities in Japan: Tokyo, Osaka, and Sapporo. The new dishes are inspired by their discoveries during the trip. Izumi's menu as a whole does not try to tell a story - but some of the individual dishes are narratives in themselves. Chef Nooresha recalls, "After our train journey with views of the Sea of Japan to Otaru, we visited Sankaku Market, where we sampled some of the freshest seafood that Japan has to offer, like king crab, uni (sea urchin), scallops, and the sweetest shrimp. In Otaru, we were introduced to Kaisen-Don by a local fisherman. Those beautiful seaside flavours stayed with us, and we couldn't wait to bring them back to India."
We started our meal with Ohitashi Tomato and Crispy Tofu Salad, a vibrant combination that also included lotus root, cucumber and white onion. Drizzled with a light yuzu dressing, it set the stage for the more indulgent treats to come. We also liked the refreshing Avocado Tartare enhanced with habanero oil. The smoothness of corn cream, the crispiness of the sweet potato strands and the bite of the tartare came together quite well. From the hot non-veg small plates section, we tasted the Kushi Katsu ( a deep-fried cutlet-like dish on a skewer). We chose the Cinnamon Pork Korokke with balsamic and honey reduction, which had scrumptious layers of sweetness, heat and (a hint of) spice. This was followed by Izumi's classic Pork Gyoza and we fought amongst ourselves for the last bite of it! The meat with almond chilli oil was encased in perfectly soft wrappers like little pockets of heaven.
Izumi's drinks menu has 18 new cocktails, many of which are inspired by Chef Nooresha's last trip where she visited different bars across Japan. Highlights include The Zen & Zest (rum/gin, yuzu, honey, ginger, fresh basil), Uji Twilight (Sencha-infused Japanese whisky, peanut butter bourbon, Amaretto, sweet vermouth, Amaro) and Tokyo Bloom (sake, gin, cherry blossom, kaffir lime). A special mention also for the mocktails here - we thoroughly relished Yuzual Suspect (a bubbly concoction with yuzu puree and kaffir lime) and Sinner Man (orange juice spiked with cinnamon syrup).
Izumi's sushi selections have remained the same, except for the addition of the Open Rolls. Chef explains that these rolls are designed to be individually consumed: "If you must, you may bite into one end of the open roll and share it with someone." The fillings were stacked inside a semi-folded sheet of crisp seaweed with a layer of rice at the bottom and reminded us of tacos in a way. We highly recommend both the veg Shimeji with Crispy Almond (with lettuce, carrot and ginger cream) and the non-veg Shime Saba (marinated mackerel and miso cream). We enjoyed the subtly sharp taste of the pickled fish - derived from the vinegar it's marinated in. There are also cool new options for the Robata grill. While meat may seem like an obvious choice, don't overlook the vegetarian possibilities. Case in point: the gloriously juicy and smoky Dashi Red Bell Pepper with Maple Butter.
Izumi's ramen boasts legions of passionate followers, so we were not exactly surprised by how good it was. However, we managed to discover new dimensions of appreciation as we tasted the Tokyo Chicken Chintan Ramen. The wholesomely light broth with flavours of shoyu and thyme, the slurp-worthy noodles and the double bite delight of chicken charsu and chicken liver pate dumplings... it was a one-bowl-meal that felt inexplicably healing.
We ended our evening with two of the new desserts: the fuss-free Monaka (wafer biscuit with coffee ice cream) and the indulgent Orange & Berry Parfait. The latter reminded us of Gadbad ice cream (a loaded dessert popularly found in some parts of Goa and Karnataka). It was a fun mix of orange blossom ice cream, berry compote, raspberry jelly, ice cream, fresh fruits and crumble. Despite the number of components, the level of sweetness was controlled very well and we loved the burst of freshness that accompanied each bite.
It would be safe to simply declare that "Izumi Bandra lives up to the hype." But our experience was about so much more. It introduced us to new favourites and satisfied cravings we were not even aware of. Now that's what makes a meal truly memorable!
Address: Ground Floor, Sunrise Cooperative Society, Road Number 24, Khar West, Mumbai.