They're "shopping with the eyes," says Lester, "and they don't care about the season."

She also relies on a fresh hot pepper every day, she told National Public Radio, crediting the ingredient for "one of the reasons I'm so healthy".

Dried pastas typically work best with heavier, rustic sauces such as meaty ragus, chefs generally agree.

Before the two of us waste too much time on the subject, I ask J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, the respected managing culinary director for the Web site Serious Eats, how much experience he has with pop-up timers.