Chicory with grapes, honey and mustard, gratin of kale and almonds, harissa carrots... Some vegetable dishes are too good to put on the side.
The vegetable dishes I find the most useful are those which can be used as either a main dish or an accompaniment. The sort of recipes that have a versatility to them, an easy feel, where they can fit into a meal however we wish. This month I have been working on recipes with that versatility in mind. A dish of chicory with grapes that makes a perfect side order for air-dried ham and yet could be served as a principal dish; a bunch of spring carrots with a spicy dressing that could be considered as an accompaniment to grilled lamb or a main course with couscous.
The gratin of kale and onions is the type of recipe that works as a side dish to a Sunday roast, as a main course or as something to bolster a meal of cold cuts on a Monday. The tomato caesar can be eaten as a salad or, as we ate it last week, on thick, hot ciabatta toast. Vegetable recipes, but with a laidback feel to them.
Chicory with grapes, honey and mustard
Serves 3
white chicory 3 heads
grapes 200g
butter 40g
grain mustard 1 tbsp
honey 2 tbsp
Trim the heads of chicory and cut them in half from tip to root. Halve the grapes and seed them.
Melt the butter in a wide, shallow pan to which you have a lid, add the sliced chicory, cut-side down, and cook over a moderate heat for 3 or 4 minutes, covered with a lid, till the underside is taking on a little colour, then turn.
Add the grapes to the pan, continue cooking briefly till they soften, then remove the chicory and grapes to a serving dish.
Stir the mustard and honey into the butter, heat for a minute or so then pour over the chicory and grapes.
Tomato caesar bruschetta
Serves 4
assorted tomatoes 400g
baby gem lettuce 2 heads
anchovy fillets 6
olive oil
ciabatta 1
For the dressing
garlic 2 cloves
egg yolk 1
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
Dijon mustard 1 tsp
olive oil 4 tbsp
Slice the tomatoes in half then place them, cut-side up, on a grill pan or baking sheet. Slice the baby gems in half and tuck them in among the tomatoes, with the anchovy fillets, season, trickle with a little oil then grill for a few minutes till the lettuce has just started to colour and the tomatoes are soft.
Make the dressing. Peel the garlic cloves and drop them into the jug of a blender, add the egg yolk, the vinegar and mustard and then the olive oil. Blend till smooth and thick. (You can also do this by hand, in the way you would make mayonnaise, beating the oil into the other ingredients with a balloon whisk.) Check the seasoning.
Split the ciabatta with a bread knife and toast it on the cut sides, place toasted side up on a board, trickle over a generous amount of olive oil, then cover with the tomatoes and lettuce. Spoon over the dressing and eat immediately, while the tomatoes are still hot and the bread is crisp.
Cucumber, fennel and ricotta salad
Serves 2
For the dressing
lemon juice 2 tbsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
sunflower oil 2 tbsp
balsamic vinegar a few drops
dill a few sprigs
cucumber ½ or 1 small one
fennel 1 small head
avocado 1
sprouting radish or micro leaves
ricotta 6 tbsp, heaped
Make the dressing: put the lemon juice in a bowl, stir in a little salt and black pepper, then whisk in the oils. Add a few drops of balsamic vinegar. Finely chop the dill and add, check balance. The dressing should be fresh but not sharp. Add more balsamic as necessary.
Peel the cucumber, remove the seeds with a teaspoon, then cut into thick slices. Halve and finely slice the fennel. Peel and thickly slice the avocado and fold all gently into the dressing, then let everything sit in a cool place for about half an hour. (Not much longer though.) Add the sprouting radish.
Transfer to a serving dish, place the ricotta on top and serve.
Gratin of kale and almonds
Serves 4
red onions 2
groundnut or rapeseed oil a little
kale 150g
flaked almonds 50g
double cream 300ml
béchamel 500ml
parmesan, grated
Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Peel and finely slice the onions into rounds. Warm a little oil in a shallow pan then add the onions and fry till soft and, here and there, pale gold.
Remove the tender leaves from the kale and chop the coarse stems. Add the chopped stems to the onions and continue cooking till they have both softened and brightened. Add the kale leaves and stir, cooking for only a couple of minutes, then add half of the flaked almonds.
Tip the onion and kale mixture into an ovenproof dish. Stir the cream into the béchamel with a good handful of grated parmesan and check the seasoning.
Pour over the kale and onion, then scatter with cheese and the reserved almonds. Bake for 30 minutes till golden and bubbling.
Harissa carrots
Serves 4 as a side dish
spring carrots 650g
garlic 2 cloves
egg yolk 1
olive oil 4 tbsp
white wine vinegar 1 tbsp
Dijon mustard 1 tbsp
harissa paste 1-2 tbsp
In a deep saucepan of boiling, lightly salted water, blanch the spring carrots, whole and trimmed of their leaves, until tender.
Peel and mash the garlic with a pestle and mortar or in a blender with the egg yolk, olive oil, vinegar, mustard and harissa.
Drain the carrots carefully and place on a serving dish. While the carrots are still warm, pour over the dressing and serve.
Tomato caesar bruschetta. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin