Before I ate my way around Catalonia, I assumed that the great (and sadly, late) Penelope Casas' recipe for romesco sauce, from her book "The Foods and Wines of Spain" was the only one I would ever need.Deservedly a classic, it's a rich and piquant purée made from sweet dried Spanish peppers along with tomato, garlic, almonds, vinegar and oil, pounded with breadcrumbs as a binder. It's marvelous on simply cooked fish, tasty stirred into seafood stews and makes a fine topping for pretty much any vegetable sturdy enough to hold its own against the thick, pungent sauce.
But once I got to Catalonia, I met romescos of other persuasions.Some were spicy and as runny as tomato sauce. Some were as thick as hummus and smoky with charred dried chilis. One memorably complex version, which I've written about before, was spiked with sweet almond biscuits and enriched with hard-cooked eggs and garlic confit, then dolloped on slim green onions called calcots.None of this is to knock Casas' excellent recipe. Nor does it imply that when it comes to romesco sauce, anything goes. But it does give me license to take a few liberties.The first is to skip the sweet dried peppers, called noras, that I had always thought were essential. They are indeed very nice, but also hard to come by unless you plan ahead (not my strong suit).Instead I substituted broiled red bell peppers. Not only do the fresh peppers add a fleshy sweetness and smokiness from the fire, they are also plentiful this time of year and begging for a noble purpose.For a mild kick and to intensify the smokiness, I threw in a bit of smoked hot paprika. And instead of almonds, or a mix of almonds and hazelnuts, I relied solely on hazelnuts for an earthier note.The result can be used nearly anywhere a brightly flavored sauce or condiment is required, and will keep in the fridge for at least a week.In her various books, Casas recommends using romesco on grilled tuna, as a sauce for shrimp and lobster or slicked over potatoes and green beans in a substantial salad. Here, I've tossed it with quickly blanched broccoli, which is crisp and light, but hearty enough to stand up to this very bold sauce.Broccoli Salad with Hazelnut RomescoTime: 30 minutesYield: 4 to 6 servings2 medium red bell peppers, halved and cored1 plum tomato, halved3 garlic cloves, peeled1/2 cup toasted, peeled hazelnuts, more for garnish1/2 cup dried bread crumbs1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, more as needed1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses or 1 teaspoon honey, more as needed1 1/2 teaspoons hot smoked paprika1 teaspoon kosher salt, more as needed2 pounds broccoli, cut into bite-size florets1. Heat the broiler. Arrange an oven rack in the position closest to flame. Place peppers (cut
side down), tomato halves (cut-side up) and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until
peppers and garlic are slightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn garlic (but do not turn peppers or tomato); broil 1 to 2 minutes longer until garlic is well browned but not burned. Transfer garlic to a large bowl. Continue broiling peppers and tomatoes until both are well charred, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer tomato and peppers to the bowl with the garlic. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let stand until vegetables are cool enough to handle but still warm, then peel peppers and tomatoes.2. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, pulse hazelnuts until coarsely ground. Add peppers, tomato, garlic, bread crumbs, oil, vinegar, pomegranate molasses, paprika and salt. Purée until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings. Scrape romesco into a bowl.3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Boil broccoli until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to ice water; drain.4. In a large bowl, toss broccoli with enough romesco to coat vegetables well. (Reserve any remaining romesco for dipping or for another use.) Garnish with hazelnuts and serve warm or at room temperature.© 2013 New York Times News Service
But once I got to Catalonia, I met romescos of other persuasions.Some were spicy and as runny as tomato sauce. Some were as thick as hummus and smoky with charred dried chilis. One memorably complex version, which I've written about before, was spiked with sweet almond biscuits and enriched with hard-cooked eggs and garlic confit, then dolloped on slim green onions called calcots.None of this is to knock Casas' excellent recipe. Nor does it imply that when it comes to romesco sauce, anything goes. But it does give me license to take a few liberties.The first is to skip the sweet dried peppers, called noras, that I had always thought were essential. They are indeed very nice, but also hard to come by unless you plan ahead (not my strong suit).Instead I substituted broiled red bell peppers. Not only do the fresh peppers add a fleshy sweetness and smokiness from the fire, they are also plentiful this time of year and begging for a noble purpose.For a mild kick and to intensify the smokiness, I threw in a bit of smoked hot paprika. And instead of almonds, or a mix of almonds and hazelnuts, I relied solely on hazelnuts for an earthier note.The result can be used nearly anywhere a brightly flavored sauce or condiment is required, and will keep in the fridge for at least a week.In her various books, Casas recommends using romesco on grilled tuna, as a sauce for shrimp and lobster or slicked over potatoes and green beans in a substantial salad. Here, I've tossed it with quickly blanched broccoli, which is crisp and light, but hearty enough to stand up to this very bold sauce.Broccoli Salad with Hazelnut RomescoTime: 30 minutesYield: 4 to 6 servings2 medium red bell peppers, halved and cored1 plum tomato, halved3 garlic cloves, peeled1/2 cup toasted, peeled hazelnuts, more for garnish1/2 cup dried bread crumbs1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil1 tablespoon sherry vinegar, more as needed1 tablespoon pomegranate molasses or 1 teaspoon honey, more as needed1 1/2 teaspoons hot smoked paprika1 teaspoon kosher salt, more as needed2 pounds broccoli, cut into bite-size florets1. Heat the broiler. Arrange an oven rack in the position closest to flame. Place peppers (cut
side down), tomato halves (cut-side up) and garlic on a rimmed baking sheet. Broil until
peppers and garlic are slightly charred, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn garlic (but do not turn peppers or tomato); broil 1 to 2 minutes longer until garlic is well browned but not burned. Transfer garlic to a large bowl. Continue broiling peppers and tomatoes until both are well charred, 4 to 5 minutes longer. Transfer tomato and peppers to the bowl with the garlic. Cover bowl with plastic wrap. Let stand until vegetables are cool enough to handle but still warm, then peel peppers and tomatoes.2. In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the blade attachment, pulse hazelnuts until coarsely ground. Add peppers, tomato, garlic, bread crumbs, oil, vinegar, pomegranate molasses, paprika and salt. Purée until smooth. Taste and adjust seasonings. Scrape romesco into a bowl.3. Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Boil broccoli until just tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to ice water; drain.4. In a large bowl, toss broccoli with enough romesco to coat vegetables well. (Reserve any remaining romesco for dipping or for another use.) Garnish with hazelnuts and serve warm or at room temperature.© 2013 New York Times News Service
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