Military Hotels from an Era When Bengaluru was Still Bangalore

Gentrification; this term usually resonates with anybody who has lived in Bangalore (it wasn’t Bengaluru then) longer than 20 years. Most neighbourhoods have been altered and new residential neighbourhoods have sprung up out of nowhere. So where does the soul of Bangalore exist? Some would argue that it is among the countless startups that typify the innovative IT stereotype. But for many, Bangalore is about its neighbourhoods like Basavangudi and Malleshwaram that still ooze with old world charm and the Cantonment areas. Like most people born in this city, I’m torn between Bangalore and Bengaluru.For over 200 years, since the British moved here, Bangalore has been a strategic military hub. Almost all the city’s well-known thoroughfares (Brigade Road, Infantry road) have a military connection. If you are willing to brave the traffic and put Google Maps to the ultimate test, you might be able to unravel the city’s another quintessential military connection, its military hotels. Legendary establishments like Vidyarthi Bhavan with their crispy masala dose and Brahmin’s Coffee Bar might be top of mind when Bangaloreans talk about eateries that have stood the test of time. But the city’s military hotels have also been an integral part of the 20th Century Bangalore food scene, way before Chettinad hotels began to dot the cityscape.Quite a few theories surround Bengaluru’s military hotels. Some historians suggest that the roots might go back as far as the 17th century when Maratha soldiers needed their meat fix. The city’s first recognised military hotel – SG Rao Military Hotel around the Cottonpet area was established by a Maratha in 1908 (S Govinda Rao Rannore) lending some serious credence to this theory. Most military hotels are concentrated around the Cottonpet, Jayanagar and Malleshwaram areas to this day. Others attribute it to the soldiers in the British army who needed a change from the military mess and started flocking to these small eateries with the ‘military hotel’ (often spelt as militry here) tag. Of course it wasn’t just military personnel who dined here, these restaurants became a haven for predominantly male clientele who left their families behind in smaller towns in villages in search of better prospects in Bangalore.Ranganna Military Hotel might not be the oldest Military hotel in the city but it has acquired a hallowed reputation since 1962 when it first opened its doors. My first impressions were a complete contrast from what I expected. Simple yet spotless interiors, lots of natural light and a spacious kitchen where hygiene is paramount. There are hardly any props except a clutch of framed sepia images from the 60s and 70s. Images of Munirangappa (aka Ranganna) then a famous wrestler in these parts after whom this restaurant is named. Ranganna’s son Sunil Kumar mans the counter now and keeps an eagle eye on his diners making sure everyone is being looked after. That can get quite tough by 1:30 pm on most days, when the restaurant is bursting at its seams. A move to a larger, new location in Jayanagar is still not enough to cater to the large crowds.
 
Ashwin Rajagopalan is a cross cultural training expert and lifestyle writer. When he's not writing about food, he thinks about gadgets, trends and travel experiences. He enjoys communicating across cultures and borders in his weekday work avatar as a content and editorial consultant for a global major and one of India's only cross cultural trainers.Disclaimer:The opinions expressed within this article are the personal opinions of the author. NDTV is not responsible for the accuracy, completeness, suitability, or validity of any information on this article. All information is provided on an as-is basis. The information, facts or opinions appearing in the article do not reflect the views of NDTV and NDTV does not assume any responsibility or liability for the same.