In a city where 'South Indian food' usually stops at idli-dosa and the odd rasam, Dakshin Canteen offers a necessary correction. Tucked into the chaotic lanes of Amar Colony in Lajpat Nagar, this compact 24-seater doesn't just serve food - it serves a point of view. Chef Ruchira Hoon, who built her reputation as a food writer and culinary consultant, is not interested in safe bets or crowd-pleasers. Dakshin Canteen is her ode to South Indian food in its full, fiery, and sometimes funky glory. The menu pulls from across Tamil Nadu, Kerala, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Karnataka and even Sri Lanka - not in a fusion sense, but with careful attention to detail, home-style technique, and real spice.
Not Just Dosa. Definitely Not Just Sambhar.
The first thing that hits you is how unafraid this kitchen is of heat. The Inji Puli Chicken Wings, for instance, are not subtle. Glazed in a sticky mix of ginger, tamarind, and jaggery, they pack the kind of sweet-sour punch that sticks around - in a good way. It is a rare moment when wings feel more like a condiment than a starter, and that is a compliment.
The Keerai Vadai comes next. Deep-fried but not greasy, these daal-based fritters are flecked with spinach, coriander, and seasonal greens. They are earthy and crisp, with a texture that lets the lentils hold their own rather than being mushed into anonymity.
Then come the Podi Prawns - tender, slightly charred prawns tucked in a coconut chammanthi blanket and finished with a drizzle of podi aioli. It is one of the most inventive dishes on the menu, not because of technique but because it manages to be creamy, spicy, and coastal all at once.
(L-R) Keerai Vadai, Inji Puli Chicken Wings and Podi Prawns
Among mains, the Sri Lankan-style Chilli-Garlic Crab Roast is the boldest item. The semi-dry gravy is deep and fiery, holding its heat without losing complexity. The meat pulls away easily, and the chillies don't overpower the crab - they balance it.
By contrast, the Sri Lankan Bandakkaya Curry is restrained and quietly clever. The fried okra gives it crunch, the raw mango adds tang, and sliced onions soften everything out. It pairs naturally with the Malabar Parotta - layered, flaky, and served hot enough to melt the edges of the curry on contact.
(L-R) Sri Lankan-style Chilli-Garlic Crab Roast and Meen Fry Kerala style
For dessert, the Filter Kaapi Softy is a crowd favourite - and for good reason. It tastes like someone churned a perfect tumbler of filter coffee into soft-serve form. Slightly bitter, beautifully creamy, and not cloyingly sweet - it is the kind of thing you'll want to linger over.
The drinks are more than just accompaniments. The Puli Ananas, with its tamarind and pineapple base and chilli-salt rim, is tart and punchy. The Elaneer Palapala is all about lightness - coconut water, chia seeds, lemon and mint - while the Manga Panakkam offers a saffron-and-raw mango lemonade that feels rooted and refreshing.
The Decor Matches the Menu: Understated and Rooted
Dakshin Canteen's interiors are clean and thoughtful - terracotta walls, wooden furniture, brass utensils, and mural-style illustrations that nod to banana trees and kolam art. There are no fake banana leaves or OTT Kanjeevaram cushion covers here. The vibe is closer to a modern Bangalore cafe than a themed restaurant. It feels familiar but not nostalgic - more home-dining-with-style than dinner-theatre.
The space is small, but it never feels cramped. In fact, the limited seating adds to the charm - you can hear the sizzle from the open kitchen, and the service is warm without being cloying. Staff are well-versed in the menu and happy to explain what podi is or which sambhar is being served that day.
South Indian Food That Feels Personal
Dakshin Canteen's greatest strength is that it does not try to please everyone, and that is exactly why it works. It knows its flavours, its audience, and its story. Chef Ruchira Hoon's personal touch is everywhere - from the printed menus with pictures to the filter coffee blend to the meticulous plating. Nothing feels rushed. Every dish has a reason to be on the menu.
In a city where South Indian non-veg food is either relegated to pop-ups or buried in curry buffets, Dakshin Canteen fills a long-empty gap. It is not just serving Chettinad food or Andhra food or Mangalorean food - it is serving all of them, but carefully, respectfully, and with the confidence of someone who knows her way around turmeric and tamarind.
This is the kind of restaurant Delhi needs more of - not just because of its food, but because of its clarity of purpose.
Where: E-127, Ground Floor, Amar Colony, Lajpat Nagar-IV, New Delhi
Price: Rs 300 for one order (approx.)
About Shubham BhatnagarYou can often find Shubham at a small authentic Chinese or Italian restaurant sampling exotic foods and sipping a glass of wine, but he will wolf down a plate of piping hot samosas with equal gusto. However, his love for homemade food trumps all.