The Sabhas and their canteens
The Sabhas are not just about Carnatic music but also a showcase for Bharatanatyam and other South Indian Classical dance forms like Kuchupudi. Many sabhas organise daylong events that begin at 9 am and finish at 9 pm, managing to pack in four performances in a single day at the same venue. Some of the Sabhas like Music Academy and Narada Gana Sabha have hallowed reputations. The Music Academy's annual festival for instance dates back to the 1920s. It's not just music that brings rasikas (a local term for music aficionados) to the Sabhas. It's the promise of scrumptious South Indian (largely Tamil Brahmin aka Tambram) cuisine. Many of the major sabhas have fully operational canteens or 'pop up' restaurants that serve a variety of dishes and stay open until the first week of January.
In the beginning, these canteens began as a convenience option for rasikas who spent the whole day hopping different sabhas. Gradually they became a showcase for fine cuisine. Most of the major canteens are managed by Wedding caterers. Weddings don't usually take place during the month of Marghazhi offering caterers an opportunity to display their wares at the Music season. It's also a perfect opportunity for rasikas to dig into top class fare. For long, these sabha canteens were like the concerts and enjoyed a cult following only among serious Carnatic Music and Dance aficionados in the city. Blame it on Social media and the food blogger phenomenon but these canteens are now a hub for foodies from Chennai who don't need to wait till they get invited for a Tambram wedding.
Aside from the regular staples like idli, vada and dosa, there's also room for a piping hot sweet Most sabha canteens offer three distinct menus. There's the breakfast menu that's akin to the fare you will normally sample at Tambram weddings. Aside from the regular staples like idli, vada and dosa, there's also room for a piping hot sweet like a pumpkin halwa or a rava kesari (made with Semolina). Then of course are the 'full meals' - that big fat Tambram meal served on a banana leaf with at least 10-15 dishes including Sambar and Rasam. Lunch almost merges with tiffin time. Most Sabha canteens offer a selection of snacks and sweets that extend all the way up to dinner. You will find more than the occasional innovation during this time slot and many caterers also serve terrific Chettinad snacks. Most Chennai's foodies will tell you that it's the first step that's the toughest. Finding the sabha canteen, scoring parking (which is almost impossible; cabs are best) and then navigating the menu. But once you've been to a couple of Sabha canteens, you know the drill. We pick three of our favourite canteens from this year's list:
Mountbatten Mani Iyer at Parthasarathy Sabha
This is arguably the best sabha canteen to visit at lunchtime. Their 'full meals' may not have as many items as some of the other caterers, but their food quality is exceptional. The flavours and recipes are traditional but there are always a few dishes that demonstrate that this canteen is not shy to experiment - the Apple pachadi (raita) is a case in point. We tried their pineapple rasam and a flavourful Milagu Kuzhambu (Pepper gravy) that were delicious. Their lunch menu (just like all caterers) is refreshed every day and the full meals cost Rs 350 (plus taxes)
Where: Vidya Bharati Kalayana Mandapam, Bheemasena Garden, Mylapore.
Their lunch menu (just like all caterers) is refreshed every day. Mint Padhmanabhan at Music Academy
This is our pick for breakfast. Music Academy hosts a 9 am concert every day and the best time to visit this canteen is around 8 am or go there for a late breakfast. Their filter coffee is just what you need to get your day started - frothy and invigorating. We also enjoyed their podi dosa (dabbed with idly powder on the insides) and their pongal that's served with a traditional aubergine gravy (gothsu). Their pumpkin halwa is one of their signatures.
Where: Music Academy, Cathedral Road.
The best time to visit this canteen is around 8 am or go there for a late breakfast.
Sasthalaya at Narada Gana Sabha
This is probably the best place for tiffin and an early dinner. The service staff are indulgent and their menu is exhaustive. We recommend their Adai Avial that's served with a generous dollop of butter and also small bits of jaggery and their sinful potato bonda. This is clearly not a time to count calories. They have a wide variety of sweets - yes, there's a handy takeaway option. Try the Badam halwa or their frosted jangiris that will give doughnuts a serious complex.
Where: Narada Gana Sabha, TTK Road.
About Ashwin RajagopalanI am the proverbial slashie - a content architect, writer, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary discoveries.That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s only got stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants across the world. I’ve discovered cultures and destinations through culinary motifs. I am equally passionate about writing on consumer tech and travel.