Cauliflower, though now in vogue, was once the least appreciated of the large family of cruciferous vegetables, no doubt because of memories of encountering it boiled, flabby and timidly seasoned, if seasoned at all. It may be hard to believe, as grilled cauliflower "steak" is now served as a main course in high-end restaurants, and boutique vegetable stands sell miniature cauliflower in pastel shades of violet and saffron with fresh green leaves attached. In less enlightened times, cauliflower was humble fare, thrown into a pot or pushed into the oven and forgotten for hours. Never mind, a vegetable wasn't supposed to taste like much. Still, I'd never turn away a proper cauliflower cheese dish prepared in the British manner with good cheddar, all bubbling and creamy - an old recipe that has a certain charm despite its relatively mild-mannered profile.The fact is, cauliflower can stand up to rather bold seasoning. It almost begs for it.
Asian spices marry very well with cauliflower. What vegetable couldn't use a blast of garlic and ginger and a hot pepper or two? With cauliflower, this is doubly true. Cumin and mustard seeds popped in oil, Indian-style, do wonders for it too. Throw slivered scallions and cilantro and mint into the mix. Don't hold back.
Another cauliflower truth: It wants high heat in an iron pan, not water or steam. With your oil of choice, try stir-frying thickish slices, letting them brown and caramelize. You'll notice the improved flavor immediately.With that in mind, here I give cauliflower a southern Italian sensibility. For big flavor, it gets chopped garlic, fresh sage, spicy pepperoncini and capers; the stir-fry medium is extra-virgin olive oil. Quarter-inch slices of cauliflower emerge from the pan in mere minutes, zesty and a little feisty, too. For a side vegetable, you couldn't do better.But I also like combining this Italianate cauliflower with a toothy large-format pasta, like rigatoni, for a stellar pasta al forno. It can be made hours in advance of serving. I give it a topping of sharp pecorino, breadcrumbs and a drizzle of oil, then bake it for a marvelous lunch or light supper. Crisp and golden, golden and crisp.Rigatoni and Cauliflower al Forno
Time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 to 6 servings1 pound rigatoni or other large pasta shape
1 medium cauliflower, about 1 1/2 pounds
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon capers, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste
3 tablespoons roughly chopped sage, plus a few sage leaves left whole
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
6 ounces coarsely grated fontina or mozzarella
2 ounces finely grated Romano or other hard pecorino
1/2 cup coarse dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish1. Cook the rigatoni in well-salted water according to package directions, but drain while still quite al dente. (If directions call for 12 minutes' cooking, cook for 10 instead.) Rinse pasta with cool water, then drain again and set aside.2. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut cauliflower in half from top to bottom. Cut out tough core and stem and extraneous leaves. Lay cauliflower flat side down and cut crosswise into rough 1/4-inch slices. Break into smaller pieces.3. Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet over high heat. Add cauliflower slices, along with any crumbly pieces, in one layer. (Work in batches if necessary.) Let cauliflower brown and caramelize for about 2 minutes, then turn pieces over to brown the other side. Cook for another 2 minutes, or until the cauliflower is easily pierced with a fork. It's fine if some pieces don't brown evenly. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add capers, garlic, red pepper flakes, chopped sage, sage leaves and lemon zest and stir to coat.4. Put cooked cauliflower mixture in a large mixing bowl. Add cooked rigatoni and fontina and toss. Transfer mixture to a lightly oiled baking dish. Top with Romano cheese, then with breadcrumbs and drizzle with about 1 tablespoon olive oil. (Dish may be completed to this point up to several hours in advance and kept at room temperature, covered.)5. Bake, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, until top is crisp and golden. Sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley before serving.© 2014 New York Times News Service
Asian spices marry very well with cauliflower. What vegetable couldn't use a blast of garlic and ginger and a hot pepper or two? With cauliflower, this is doubly true. Cumin and mustard seeds popped in oil, Indian-style, do wonders for it too. Throw slivered scallions and cilantro and mint into the mix. Don't hold back.
Another cauliflower truth: It wants high heat in an iron pan, not water or steam. With your oil of choice, try stir-frying thickish slices, letting them brown and caramelize. You'll notice the improved flavor immediately.With that in mind, here I give cauliflower a southern Italian sensibility. For big flavor, it gets chopped garlic, fresh sage, spicy pepperoncini and capers; the stir-fry medium is extra-virgin olive oil. Quarter-inch slices of cauliflower emerge from the pan in mere minutes, zesty and a little feisty, too. For a side vegetable, you couldn't do better.But I also like combining this Italianate cauliflower with a toothy large-format pasta, like rigatoni, for a stellar pasta al forno. It can be made hours in advance of serving. I give it a topping of sharp pecorino, breadcrumbs and a drizzle of oil, then bake it for a marvelous lunch or light supper. Crisp and golden, golden and crisp.Rigatoni and Cauliflower al Forno
Time: 1 hour
Yield: 4 to 6 servings1 pound rigatoni or other large pasta shape
1 medium cauliflower, about 1 1/2 pounds
Extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and pepper
1 tablespoon capers, roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes, or more to taste
3 tablespoons roughly chopped sage, plus a few sage leaves left whole
1/2 teaspoon lemon zest
6 ounces coarsely grated fontina or mozzarella
2 ounces finely grated Romano or other hard pecorino
1/2 cup coarse dry breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley, for garnish1. Cook the rigatoni in well-salted water according to package directions, but drain while still quite al dente. (If directions call for 12 minutes' cooking, cook for 10 instead.) Rinse pasta with cool water, then drain again and set aside.2. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Cut cauliflower in half from top to bottom. Cut out tough core and stem and extraneous leaves. Lay cauliflower flat side down and cut crosswise into rough 1/4-inch slices. Break into smaller pieces.3. Put 3 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet over high heat. Add cauliflower slices, along with any crumbly pieces, in one layer. (Work in batches if necessary.) Let cauliflower brown and caramelize for about 2 minutes, then turn pieces over to brown the other side. Cook for another 2 minutes, or until the cauliflower is easily pierced with a fork. It's fine if some pieces don't brown evenly. Season generously with salt and pepper. Add capers, garlic, red pepper flakes, chopped sage, sage leaves and lemon zest and stir to coat.4. Put cooked cauliflower mixture in a large mixing bowl. Add cooked rigatoni and fontina and toss. Transfer mixture to a lightly oiled baking dish. Top with Romano cheese, then with breadcrumbs and drizzle with about 1 tablespoon olive oil. (Dish may be completed to this point up to several hours in advance and kept at room temperature, covered.)5. Bake, uncovered, for 20 to 30 minutes, until top is crisp and golden. Sprinkle with freshly chopped parsley before serving.© 2014 New York Times News Service
Advertisement