Rhik Samadder gets ready to pump some coffee. Photograph: Christian Sinibaldi for the GuardianThe stylish Handpresso loses marks for its 16-point procedure and hand-burning capacity.
What?
The Handpresso Wild ("£149, handpresso.co.uk) is a portable pump and percolation baton. Air manually pressurised at one end drives hot water through coffee grounds at the other.
Why?
Whether camping on the beach or living out of the back of your car, you can still get jacked up on quality joe.
Well?
Espresso is a drink for the driven. People who get up at 6am, and have desk slogans such as "Quit slackin' and make it happen" or "BE the change you wish to see in asset management". Caffeine fiends, who can't get through a pleasant picnic without thinking, "Christ, there's no 4G out here, and we're MILES FROM A BARISTA." If this sounds like you, rejoice. The Handpresso Wild is basically a java-dispensing bike pump; reminiscent of the popular Aeropress, but with added style and expense. And it really is a chic little gubbins. The carry case resembles a personal defibrillator. Inside, four demitasses are berthed in black mesh and leather. Details such as a napkin, and temperature gauge on the flask, are strong. But, "How does it bloody work?" I think as I stare at the manual's 16-point procedure. (Sixteen! I once put up an Ikea computer bench and whiteboard that had three.) Here's how: pump up the device, as if fixing a tyre. Put coffee grounds inside the Domepod. Fill from the flask. Releasing pressure pushes liquid through the grounds, into your cup. That's the theory. The first time I try, the Domepod shoots off, and very hot water cascades over my hand. I usually take my coffee with milk and without minor burns, so at this point, my interest cools. I secure the Domepod and pass it to a coffee geek acquaintance to test instead. To be honest, it's for the best " I'm not an espresso person. (The only "get up and go" I experience drinking it is the urge to get up and go to the toilet immediately.) She pronounces it "a decent shot, with respectable crema" and doesn't give it back. So there you go. The Handpresso " a little too wild for me, but maybe you've got stronger stuff in your veins.
Any downside?
Seeing as you need to carry a flask around to make this work, why not put coffee in that? I know, philistinic. What can I say, I've been burned.
Counter, drawer, back of the cupboard?
Drawer (first-aid drawer). 3/5
