During a recent dinner party I found myself making a distinction between ingredient-driven cooking and culture-driven cooking and explaining that I believe the best cooking is culture-driven. Here's what I mean by that.

The matching of pasta shapes with sauces is something of an art. There is usually some logic to it, but not always.

One of the most beautiful cities in Sicily is Syracuse, which has a history extending to the ancient Greeks. There is a method of cooking in Syracuse, especially applied to Sicilian fish, but other foods as well, that makes for beguiling dishes.

Harisa is the most important condiment used in Algerian and Tunisian cooking, and you need to make this recipe and keep it in the refrigerator before attempting any other Algerian or Tunisian recipe.

It's not a popular vegetable today, but it is a vegetable that does draw the curious cook.

Who sits where is one of the most important decisions you'll make. You don't need to sit boy-girl-boy. Consider personalities when making a seating chart.