People are eating more fish than ever before. But only in restaurants. It is a curious paradox that as fish consumption has risen, preparation of it in homes has fallen.We hate cooking fish. I think it is more than that: We fear it. We think it is complicated, and we are not really sure just how fresh the fish is.Part of that fear must come from the fact that fish live in an environment in which we can not: It is alien flesh. Animals that roam the land, breathing the air we breathe - that we can understand. Children are innate fish haters: Most refuse any form of seafood, except perhaps an entirely denatured fish stick. Adults are not so different, wanting their fish descaled, sauce-swathed and essentially transfigured.
This is such a pity, because fish is incredibly simple to cook. And it is best as plain as possible, not whipped up into something fancy with a sauce or smothered in other flavorings.That may seem an odd protest since one of the recipes here calls for cod fillets to be wrapped in prosciutto. But the salty ham does not swamp the fish; rather, it gives flavor to its soft, almost bland flesh.It is about contrast and balance rather than concealment. Once fish has been filleted, skinned, refrigerated and wrapped in plastic, it can lose any flavor or texture. The one thing you do not want to do is cook it in a way that neutralizes it further.Cod with prosciutto and lentils is one of my favorite dinner party standbys. The lentils can be cooked in advance, even two days ahead if you want. Just blitz onion, carrot and garlic into a mush in the processor, cook until sweet and soft in a little oil, then add dried thyme, bay leaves and salt. Add the lentils, top with water and cook till nearly tender but still nubbly.You can brush the cold cod fillets with a little melted butter and wrap them in the prosciutto a few hours before you want to cook them. Just let them sit in the fridge, and remember to bring them to room temperature before brushing the beautiful parcels with a little more butter before setting them in the oven to cook for about a quarter of an hour. Arrange the lentils on a large dish, sit the ham-wrapped fish on top and scatter some freshly chopped parsley on top if you wish.This is dinner. The starchiness of the lentils means you do not even have to think about potatoes; a green salad and maybe some pickled dill cucumbers are all that you could need as accompaniment.Perhaps suggesting a fish risotto is asking for trouble: People are almost as panicked about cooking risotto as they are about fish. But if you are going to get wet, you may as well go swimming.Risotto is not difficult in the slightest; it just needs constant attention. I don't mean that to put you off: This attention should not last more than 20 minutes. And there are worse things to do than stir a pan for a while before supper.Italians may look askance at this recipe: After all, it calls on spices entirely alien to the Italian kitchen. The cumin, coriander and turmeric are there to evoke that great dish of the Anglo-Indian empire, kedgeree, in which smoked fish, rice and spices are bound together.This risotto is better: You get sticky toothsomeness that comforts with every mouthful. Poach smoked fish in flavored water for just under five minutes, then use the water to flavor the vegetable stock for the risotto.Some lemon zest at the beginning of the cooking time and a squirt of juice at the end, and you have a bright, golden, rich but not aggressively fishy risotto that makes the perfect cozy supper for two or substantial starter for four.Just one bossy proviso: Add no grated Parmesan to this risotto. Italians never grate cheese on fish pastas or risottos, and even if this dish is not strictly Italian, their strictures still hold. This risotto is complete as it is. You need do nothing to it at all save eat it, gladly.+++COD BAKED WITH PROSCIUTTOStart to finish: 25 minutesServings: 66 6-ounce skinless cod fillets2 tablespoons butter, melted8 ounces (about 16 large slices) prosciutto di ParmaHeat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with a nonstick liner or aluminum foil.Brush cod fillets with butter, and wrap each in a slice or two of prosciutto, leaving ends of fillets unwrapped. (If slices tear or are narrow, more than two may be used to wrap each fillet.) Brush with butter again, and place on baking sheet.Bake fish until firm and white at unwrapped ends, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove from baking sheet, and, if desired, place each fillet on a bed of lentils.+++
FRENCH LENTILS WITH GARLIC AND THYMEStart to finish: 40 minutesServings: 61 onion, peeled and cut in two2 cloves garlic, peeled1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil2 1/4 cups French lentils (available in specialty food markets)1 teaspoon dried thyme3 bay leaves1 tablespoon kosher salt or1 1/2 teaspoons table saltIn a food processor, combine onion, garlic and carrot. Process until finely chopped.Place a large saucepan over medium heat, and add oil. When hot, add chopped vegetables, and saute until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Add 6 cups water, lentils, thyme, bay leaves and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a fast simmer.Simmer lentils until they are tender and have absorbed most of the water, for 20 to 25 minutes. If necessary, drain any excess water after lentils have cooked. Serve immediately, or allow them to cool and reheat later.+++SMOKED-FISH RISOTTOStart to finish: 35 minutesServings: 410 ounces smoked cod (sable) or smoked haddock (finnan haddie)Freshly ground black pepper1 bay leafSprig of parsley2 cups high-quality vegetable stock, or as needed2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon butter1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil1 cup finely sliced leeks (white and light green parts only), well rinsed1 1/2 cups Arborio rice1/4 teaspoon ground mace1/4 teaspoon ground cumin1/4 teaspoon ground coriander1/4 teaspoon turmericFinely grated zest of 1 lemon1/3 cup white wine1 teaspoon lemon juice2 tablespoons chopped parsleyCut fish into two or more pieces to fit into a skillet. Season with black pepper to taste, then add bay leaf, sprig of parsley and 2 cups water. Place pan over high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until fish is heated through but not falling apart, about 3 minutes.Remove fish with a slotted spatula, wrap in foil, and set aside. Strain cooking liquid into a 1-quart measuring pitcher, and add enough vegetable stock to make a total of 1 quart liquid. Transfer to a saucepan and place over low heat.In a large, wide saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons butter and the oil. Add leeks, and saute over low heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add rice to pan, and stir until glossy, then add mace, cumin, coriander, turmeric and lemon zest. Raise heat to medium, and add wine, stirring until it is absorbed. Add a ladleful of vegetable stock mixture, stirring until it is absorbed. Add an additional ladleful of stock, stirring until it too is completely absorbed. Continue, ladleful by ladleful, until rice is cooked al dente, about 20 minutes. (Amount of liquid needed may vary and all the liquid may not be needed.)Flake fish and add to rice along with remaining 1 teaspoon butter and the lemon juice. Remove from heat and mix well with a wooden spoon until mixture is creamy and well-blended. To serve, spoon risotto onto a large flat plate and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve immediately.© 2014 Nigella Lawson© 2014 The New York TimesPhoto Source: Thinkstock
This is such a pity, because fish is incredibly simple to cook. And it is best as plain as possible, not whipped up into something fancy with a sauce or smothered in other flavorings.That may seem an odd protest since one of the recipes here calls for cod fillets to be wrapped in prosciutto. But the salty ham does not swamp the fish; rather, it gives flavor to its soft, almost bland flesh.It is about contrast and balance rather than concealment. Once fish has been filleted, skinned, refrigerated and wrapped in plastic, it can lose any flavor or texture. The one thing you do not want to do is cook it in a way that neutralizes it further.Cod with prosciutto and lentils is one of my favorite dinner party standbys. The lentils can be cooked in advance, even two days ahead if you want. Just blitz onion, carrot and garlic into a mush in the processor, cook until sweet and soft in a little oil, then add dried thyme, bay leaves and salt. Add the lentils, top with water and cook till nearly tender but still nubbly.You can brush the cold cod fillets with a little melted butter and wrap them in the prosciutto a few hours before you want to cook them. Just let them sit in the fridge, and remember to bring them to room temperature before brushing the beautiful parcels with a little more butter before setting them in the oven to cook for about a quarter of an hour. Arrange the lentils on a large dish, sit the ham-wrapped fish on top and scatter some freshly chopped parsley on top if you wish.This is dinner. The starchiness of the lentils means you do not even have to think about potatoes; a green salad and maybe some pickled dill cucumbers are all that you could need as accompaniment.Perhaps suggesting a fish risotto is asking for trouble: People are almost as panicked about cooking risotto as they are about fish. But if you are going to get wet, you may as well go swimming.Risotto is not difficult in the slightest; it just needs constant attention. I don't mean that to put you off: This attention should not last more than 20 minutes. And there are worse things to do than stir a pan for a while before supper.Italians may look askance at this recipe: After all, it calls on spices entirely alien to the Italian kitchen. The cumin, coriander and turmeric are there to evoke that great dish of the Anglo-Indian empire, kedgeree, in which smoked fish, rice and spices are bound together.This risotto is better: You get sticky toothsomeness that comforts with every mouthful. Poach smoked fish in flavored water for just under five minutes, then use the water to flavor the vegetable stock for the risotto.Some lemon zest at the beginning of the cooking time and a squirt of juice at the end, and you have a bright, golden, rich but not aggressively fishy risotto that makes the perfect cozy supper for two or substantial starter for four.Just one bossy proviso: Add no grated Parmesan to this risotto. Italians never grate cheese on fish pastas or risottos, and even if this dish is not strictly Italian, their strictures still hold. This risotto is complete as it is. You need do nothing to it at all save eat it, gladly.+++COD BAKED WITH PROSCIUTTOStart to finish: 25 minutesServings: 66 6-ounce skinless cod fillets2 tablespoons butter, melted8 ounces (about 16 large slices) prosciutto di ParmaHeat oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with a nonstick liner or aluminum foil.Brush cod fillets with butter, and wrap each in a slice or two of prosciutto, leaving ends of fillets unwrapped. (If slices tear or are narrow, more than two may be used to wrap each fillet.) Brush with butter again, and place on baking sheet.Bake fish until firm and white at unwrapped ends, about 20 minutes. Carefully remove from baking sheet, and, if desired, place each fillet on a bed of lentils.+++
FRENCH LENTILS WITH GARLIC AND THYMEStart to finish: 40 minutesServings: 61 onion, peeled and cut in two2 cloves garlic, peeled1 carrot, peeled and roughly chopped3 tablespoons olive or vegetable oil2 1/4 cups French lentils (available in specialty food markets)1 teaspoon dried thyme3 bay leaves1 tablespoon kosher salt or1 1/2 teaspoons table saltIn a food processor, combine onion, garlic and carrot. Process until finely chopped.Place a large saucepan over medium heat, and add oil. When hot, add chopped vegetables, and saute until softened, 5 to 10 minutes. Add 6 cups water, lentils, thyme, bay leaves and salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a fast simmer.Simmer lentils until they are tender and have absorbed most of the water, for 20 to 25 minutes. If necessary, drain any excess water after lentils have cooked. Serve immediately, or allow them to cool and reheat later.+++SMOKED-FISH RISOTTOStart to finish: 35 minutesServings: 410 ounces smoked cod (sable) or smoked haddock (finnan haddie)Freshly ground black pepper1 bay leafSprig of parsley2 cups high-quality vegetable stock, or as needed2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon butter1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil1 cup finely sliced leeks (white and light green parts only), well rinsed1 1/2 cups Arborio rice1/4 teaspoon ground mace1/4 teaspoon ground cumin1/4 teaspoon ground coriander1/4 teaspoon turmericFinely grated zest of 1 lemon1/3 cup white wine1 teaspoon lemon juice2 tablespoons chopped parsleyCut fish into two or more pieces to fit into a skillet. Season with black pepper to taste, then add bay leaf, sprig of parsley and 2 cups water. Place pan over high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium-low, and simmer until fish is heated through but not falling apart, about 3 minutes.Remove fish with a slotted spatula, wrap in foil, and set aside. Strain cooking liquid into a 1-quart measuring pitcher, and add enough vegetable stock to make a total of 1 quart liquid. Transfer to a saucepan and place over low heat.In a large, wide saucepan, heat 2 tablespoons butter and the oil. Add leeks, and saute over low heat until softened, about 5 minutes. Add rice to pan, and stir until glossy, then add mace, cumin, coriander, turmeric and lemon zest. Raise heat to medium, and add wine, stirring until it is absorbed. Add a ladleful of vegetable stock mixture, stirring until it is absorbed. Add an additional ladleful of stock, stirring until it too is completely absorbed. Continue, ladleful by ladleful, until rice is cooked al dente, about 20 minutes. (Amount of liquid needed may vary and all the liquid may not be needed.)Flake fish and add to rice along with remaining 1 teaspoon butter and the lemon juice. Remove from heat and mix well with a wooden spoon until mixture is creamy and well-blended. To serve, spoon risotto onto a large flat plate and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve immediately.© 2014 Nigella Lawson© 2014 The New York TimesPhoto Source: Thinkstock
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