Use arborio rice. Its short, fat grains will plump up with the stock, resulting in a soft and creamy consistency. Get the stock really hot before adding it, then bring it to the boil, before transferring the mixture to the oven. Using cold stock will alter the cooking time.The twist
Use dried porcini, reconstituted in the stock, in place of the fresh chestnut mushrooms. Introduce sun-blush tomatoes, shredded basil leaves and sliced green olives if you wish, or replace the goat's cheese with camembert or brie for a really sticky rice dish for a cold night.
Bowled over: baked rice with pancetta, mushrooms and goat's cheese. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer