Nigel Slater's Baked Rice With Pancetta, Mushrooms and Goat's Cheese

A comforting dish for an autumn evening

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The recipeIn a frying pan, cook 140g pancetta, cut into small cubes, until appetisingly golden. You may need a little oil. When the pancetta is ready, remove and set aside, then pour 3 tablespoons of oil into the pan. Slice 200g mushrooms and lightly brown them in the oil over a moderate heat. Tip 200g of arborio rice into the pan, return the pancetta, season with salt and coarse pepper, then transfer to a baking tin or dish and pour in 450ml of hot stock. Stir lightly, bring to the boil, then transfer to the oven, set at 200C/gas mark 6, and bake for 25-30 minutes. Grate over 50g parmesan cheese, add 180g goat's cheese, cut in thick slices, and fold gently together. Add a little watercress and serve. Enough for 2-3.

The trick

Use arborio rice. Its short, fat grains will plump up with the stock, resulting in a soft and creamy consistency. Get the stock really hot before adding it, then bring it to the boil, before transferring the mixture to the oven. Using cold stock will alter the cooking time.

The twist

Use dried porcini, reconstituted in the stock, in place of the fresh chestnut mushrooms. Introduce sun-blush tomatoes, shredded basil leaves and sliced green olives if you wish, or replace the goat's cheese with camembert or brie for a really sticky rice dish for a cold night.

Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk. Follow Nigel on Twitter @NigelSlater

Bowled over: baked rice with pancetta, mushrooms and goat's cheese. Photograph: Jonathan Lovekin for the Observer