Chef's Table: In Conversation with Irfan Pabaney, The Sassy Spoon, Mumbai

^{Chef Irfan Pabaney}Define Sassy Food.
Food at The Sassy Spoon is typically termed western eclectic, but the basis of the food is to just put what we love on the plateCurrently, with everyone trying their hands at molecular gastronomy and modern Indian/ global food, tweaking old recipes, do you think inventive food is what’s ruling the Indian culinary scenario?
I wouldn’t say it is ruling the Indian culinary scenario, I think chefs are taking local elements and making them a little less traditional without taking away from its essence. As for molecular gastronomy, it still hasn’t picked up in a big way in India.
What’s hot selling at the restaurant right now?
The warm lemony cous cous with prawn and squid, and the date and sticky toffee pudding.
 ^{The quirky interiors}How did The Sassy Spoon story start and what made you do so?
So Rachel Goenka and I met through a common friend. Our food philosophies were very similar and that was it.Tell us about the thought behind creating the menu.
Like I said, it was putting on the plate what we loved to eat. We worked on that menu for 3-4 months, pretty much non-stop.Where are you from? What made you pursue a career as a chef?
I was born in Colombia and lived the first 4 years of my life in South America, thanks to my dad being in the United Nations. I then grew up in the Philippines, hence my love for South East Asian food, before finally moving back to India in 1980. I loved the hospitality industry, and decided to do my hotel management but not really having decided that I wanted to become a chef. It just happened.What’s in your mind when you have your Chef’s hat on?
Oh lots of stuff - from being creative to running a tight ship. I’m a stickler for quality and hygiene, so that’s something I constantly drill into my team.That one dish you are extremely proud of creating?
The spaghetti with the lemon beurre noisette with toasted almonds and fresh basil.
^{Sassy Stacks}The Sassy Spoon cocktail menu is extremely popular with the diners with infused vodkas, Indian spices, local berries etc. What’s your favourite concoction?
That’s all thanks to our mixologist, Pranav Mody. My personal favourite is the Very Berry Khatta, our take on the humble kala khatta which, as kids, we grew up on.The Sassy Spoon menu features a few dishes using ancient grains such as ragi baguettes, buckwheat pasta, pearl barley salad, brown rice paella etc. Is this your way of reintroducing the forgotten grains?
I love playing with texture. The fact is, these aren’t forgotten grains at all, especially not in the Indian context of food. All we did was take these elements and reintroduce them in the food that we cook.Are you planning to showcase more dishes using ancient grains? If yes, which ones?
We take it as it comes. If something interesting comes to mind, we’ll try, but it isn’t something we plan.We’ve heard about The Sassy Spoon food van. How did that come about?
So the idea behind the vans were more for awareness. We are lucky that my partners have a collection of stunning vintage cars. Using those beauties (Vintage VW vans) was his idea.
^{Otak Otak}Goan sausages seem to be a popular inclusion in your menu. Do you have a soft corner for it?
Absolutely! Needless to say, as is the case with most Indians. Who doesn’t love Goa or its cuisine? And there is so much you can do with Goan sausages. I have visited Goa four times this year, and it was mostly for the food.Your current ingredient obsession?
Curry patta and star anise.What’s the most popular dish at The Sassy Spoon?
That’s a tough one. It would have to be the spaghetti with the lemon beurre noisette and the warm lemony cous cous.An important cooking lesson you’ve learned in your career.
Never ever compromise, and always always have fun.3 ingredients that you cannot do without.
Only 3? If you insist… olive oil, salt and sugar….and lemon.The one dish you love to dig into when no one’s watching you?
Spaghetti! And Mutton Sukha. Not necessarily in that order.
 ^{Penne with smoked aubergine}3 Indian ingredients which you think are most underrated? What do you want to do with them to bring them to the spotlight?
I can only give you my perspective on using Indian ingredients with the food I do, but they would need to be Khus Khus, methi seeds and kala namak.A celebrity you are extremely proud of serving a meal to?
Ashish Deshpande.What’s next in your plan?
The plans are many, it’s the timing that’s important and the space. Will keep you posted.