Torii, the Bandra restaurant co-owned by Gauri Khan, is once again in the news, this time for a brutally honest comment by co-founder Abhayraj Kohli. In an interview, he said, "A small fly or insect or a piece of hair that comes into your food, that's part and parcel of doing work." The remark, intended to underline the realities of kitchen operations, has sparked a fresh conversation on hygiene in restaurants.
"We Pay Utmost Importance To Food Safety"
In a conversation with Pop Diaries, Mr Kohli explained the measures Torii takes to maintain hygiene, from sourcing ingredients to plating dishes. "A lot of restaurants, they are not very clean with what they do, but restaurants of our calibre, we pay utmost importance to how food is treated... It's not only the hygiene of the kitchen or how clean it is, but also how the food is stored from the time it comes in from the suppliers to the time it gets on a person's plate," he said.
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Mr Kohli also discussed the technical aspects of handling raw meat, central to Torii's menu, which includes sushi, sashimi, and ceviche. "Is it safe to just remove the meat from the freezer and serve it? No. The food has to be kept in a particular piece of equipment called a superfreezer. And the superfreezer takes the food down to -60 and -70 degrees, which does not let any bacteria grow in the food." According to him, only a few restaurants in India use this technology.
What raised eyebrows, however, was his frank acknowledgement that specific incidents cannot be avoided. "A small fly or insect or a piece of hair that comes into your food, that's part and parcel of doing work. It happens at your homes, it happens at your workplace, and it will happen at a restaurant, and nothing can change that," he remarked.
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The Earlier 'Fake Paneer' Row
Torii's last brush with controversy came in April when YouTuber Sarthak Sachdeva claimed the restaurant served "fake paneer." The influencer posted a video of an iodine test he said indicated adulteration. Torii responded with a detailed explanation, stating: "We are utterly surprised at the news of 'fake paneer' being served at Torii. The iodine test reflects the presence of starch, not the authenticity of the paneer. For all dishes that contain soy-based ingredients (a staple in Asian food), this reaction is expected."
The video was later deleted after discussions between the restaurant and the influencer about food science and culinary practices.