A week ago, I was at Kochi's newest all-day diner in the heart of city's technology hub. The Square at the Novotel Kochi, in Kakkanad, where numerous IT companies have sprung up during this decade. Kochi is truly on the move - a spanking new metro, chain of luxury hotels, excellent restaurants serving International cuisines and bumper-to-bumper traffic that locals are still getting used to. However, there's one part of Kochi where things haven't changed much.
I spent nine rupees on a public ferry that transported me from the busy Marine drive pier to a part of Kochi that has been romanticised and deservedly so. From the narrow alleys and synagogue in Mattancherry to the colonial era buildings of Fort Kochi, this is a part of the city that has fascinated me since my childhood. Some of these buildings have now morphed into cafes - sanctuaries for travellers from India and across the globe who have been smitten by Kochi's charms. We pick some of our favourite cafes that are worthy pit-stops the next time the Queen of the Arabian sea beckons:Kashi Art Café
Is this a café that doubles up as an art space or a gallery that can serve a mean breakfast or all-day meal? Two visits later, I still haven't figured. What I do know is that this is probably one of the best places to begin your day in Kochi. Their version of the French toast is certainly worth setting an alarm for. Don't fret if you oversleep, as most of their breakfast favourites are part of their all-day menu. The art installations make the perfect backdrop for endless conversations; this café is equally popular with the city's well-heeled and travellers from half way across the globe.
Where: Burgher Street, Fort Kochi
Teapot Café
I still remember my first visit here at the beginning of the decade. That was almost at dinner time where I polished off their legendary appam and stew. This quirky cafe is equally charming at day; tea time is probably the best time to land up here. Dozens of teapots and a mishmash of trinkets and souvenirs add soul to this cafe located in the heart of Fort Kochi. Not surprisingly, their teas - they serve at least a dozen at any given time - are their biggest draw.
Where: Peter Celli Street, Fort Kochi
Loafers Corner Café
A relatively cosy nook in the middle of a busy junction that sits next door to the local Tourism Information Centre. This is one of the newer cafes to dot the Fort Kochi landscape and has already made it to quite a few 'must do' lists. If you like some dessert to keep you company as you flip through the pages of your book, this is probably the place to be. Their mango cheese cake has acquired quite a reputation.
Where: Princess Street, Fort Kochi
David Hall Art Café
This art café is located just a few buildings away from the historic St. Francis Church and the iconic Cochin Club. Legend has it that the Dutch East India Company that pushed the Portuguese out of Kochi, erected three houses in the 17th century with the material sourced from demolished structures. David Hall, a CGH Earth initiative is the only house that has survived. It's part gallery - that also supports budding artists - and part cafe comes with a beautiful outdoor space set in a garden. Comfort food rules the roost here, from burgers to sandwiches to pasta.
Where: Opposite Parade Ground, Fort Kochi.
Pepper House
I discovered this atmospheric space during the first Kochi-Muzuris biennale in early 2013. This waterfront heritage building is made of two godowns that overlook the street and the waterfront. These Dutch-era buildings are split by a large courtyard. The cafe overlooks the courtyard and this large space also includes a library and an art gallery. Their coffees and summer beverages (like a refreshing passionfruit lemonade) are quite popular but this cafe makes our list more for its ambience.
Where: Calvathy Road, Fort Kochi
About Ashwin RajagopalanI am the proverbial slashie - a content architect, writer, speaker and cultural intelligence coach. School lunch boxes are usually the beginning of our culinary discoveries.That curiosity hasn’t waned. It’s only got stronger as I’ve explored culinary cultures, street food and fine dining restaurants across the world. I’ve discovered cultures and destinations through culinary motifs. I am equally passionate about writing on consumer tech and travel.